We’ve all seen the nearly instant glow and baby soft skin that’s revealed after a good facial shaving session. But if you’ve been hesitant to try it out for yourself, you’re not alone.
In addition to the difficulty in getting a smooth, clean shave every time, many people share the concern that after they shave or dermaplane, their hair will grow back thicker. To get to the bottom of this once and for all, I spoke with a dermatologist to share the truth about the common belief.
What is dermaplaning?
Facial shaving can also go by another name: dermaplaning. This is described as “physical exfoliation with a sterile blade drawn at an angle across the skin,” according to Michael Tassavor, M.D., M.S., a board-certified dermatologist at MDCS: Medical Dermatology and Cosmetic Surgery. Dead skin and peach fuzz are removed through this process to reveal smooth skin underneath. “The [skin] barrier is temporarily depleted, which is why skin feels so smooth afterward,” he says.
Can dermaplaning or any facial shaving make hair grow back thicker?
While you may have heard that after you shave the hair grows back thicker, the truth is “that's a myth,” according to Dr. Tassavor. He explains that when our hairs are cut at the shaft, they may appear or feel different, but there isn’t any true change to the follicle. “It only feels stubbly because the blade removes the fine tapered tip, leaving a blunt cut end that looks wider and less sun-weathered,” he says. “No controlled study has shown shaving or dermaplaning changes density, color, or thickness.”
What are the downsides of shaving your face?
You won’t see your hair grow back thicker, but there can be some downsides to facial shaving that you should look out for. Redness, tightness, itching, and mild swelling that settles within a week can sometimes result from dermaplaning or shaving incorrectly, though Dr. Tassavor describes these concerns as mostly low-risk. “Real risks include nicks (especially with poor technique or active acne), infection, hyperpigmentation, and acne flares,” he says.
If you are planning to dermaplane, Dr. Tessavor suggests that you “skip it [if you struggle] with active breakouts, facial infections, rosacea flares, or a history of keloids—and use extra caution if you're on blood thinners.” Other than that, he says that you can also expect to experience some sun sensitivity within the first few days following dermaplaning.
A safe dermaplaning routine:
First you’ll want to start with clean skin without makeup, Dr. Tessavor advises, and skin that is free of breakouts. “Use a sterile single-use blade at about a 45-degree angle [while holding your skin taut], with short, light strokes in the direction of hair growth—don't press hard or go over the same spot repeatedly,” he says.
You’ll also want to ensure that the tool you choose is made for at-home use, since they have guards over the blade to prevent cutting the face. “Don’t try to use a blade made for professional use because a small mistake can cause a very bad cut,” says Good Housekeeping Institute Beauty & Personal Care Lab Reviews Analyst Chiara Butler.
After that, “[Use] plain moisturizer, strict sunscreen, and hold off on retinoids, acids, and exfoliants for a few days while the barrier recovers, ”Dr. Tessavor adds. SPF 30 or higher is recommended and you’ll want to be sure to give your skin proper time to recover.
