Scientists Say This New Ingredient Could Make Sunscreen Better

A big change is coming to the sunscreen aisle. On June 9th, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approved a new UV-absorbing ingredient for use in sunscreens called bemotrizinol, or BEMT. Buzzy new skincare ingredients seem to pop up every day, so why is a new sunscreen ingredient newsworthy? The reason is that in the U.S., the FDA tightly regulates sunscreens by designating them as over-the-counter (OTC) drugs, in the same category as ibuprofen and cold medicine. The hurdles to getting new sunscreen ingredients approved by the FDA have been steep for decades, but a new ingredient has finally made it through: BEMT is the first sunscreen ingredient to be approved in the U.S. since 1999.

What’s so special about this new ingredient? Is it safe? How will it change the way we use sunscreen? Experts answer all of your burning questions.

What is BEMT?

Bemotrizinol, also known as BEMT or Parsol Shield, is an ingredient used in sunscreens that absorbs UV light. Sunscreen active ingredients are often called filters because they filter UV light before it reaches the skin.

These filters come in two categories, organic or “chemical” filters like avobezone and octisalate, and inorganic or “mineral” filters like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. Despite these terms, both organic and inorganic filters are chemicals produced in a lab. BEMT is a chemical filter, which means that unlike mineral filters, it won’t leave you looking like a ghost. “Like other organic UV filters, BEMT is designed to be transparent on skin and does not inherently leave a white cast,” says Joshua Williams, Ph.D., Associate Director of Sun Care Clinical Science at Kenvue, the parent company of Neutrogena.

While BEMT is new to the U.S., it’s not new to the rest of the world. Harry Sarkas, Ph.D., Chief Scientific Officer at Solésence, a manufacturer of mineral SPF skincare and makeup products, says “bemotrizinol is widely used internationally, including in Asia, Europe, and Australia.” Williams adds, “bringing BEMT to the U.S. is a significant opportunity.” With the approval of BEMT, the U.S. is catching up to the sunscreen markets of other countries like South Korea. “BEMT’s versatility gives a wider range of formulation textures and finishes which contributes to the interest in K-Beauty sun protection products in the U.S.,” says Sarkas.

What makes this new ingredient special?

BEMT has some major advantages over the current organic sunscreen filters used in the U.S. Firstly, it absorbs more of the UV light spectrum. Dermatologists recommend using a broad spectrum sunscreen, meaning one that protects skin from the two kinds of UV light: UVA and UVB. However, none of the chemical filters we’ve had thus far could cover the whole spectrum on their own, meaning multiple filters had to be combined. Thankfully, “bemotrizinol is considered a broad-spectrum UV filter and can be used in SPF-infused products to protect against both UVA and UVB rays. It’s one of the few chemical sunscreens to be broad spectrum as most only protect against one or the other,” says Sarkas.

If sunscreen currently brings to mind words like “heavy” and “greasy,” BEMT could change that. The scientists I spoke to said the ingredient’s versatility could open up a new world of nicer, less oily sunscreens. Williams says BEMT “gives formulators greater flexibility to create new elegant and lightweight sunscreen textures…allowing formulators to achieve high sun protection efficacy while being able to rebalance levels of certain ingredients like oils required in sunscreen formulations.”

Is it safe?

BEMT has been tested extensively for safety. Thanks to this wealth of data, the FDA has designated it “generally recognized as safe and effective,” or GRASE. The FDA’s review of clinical studies on the ingredient finds that BEMT “has low risk of systemic toxicity due to minimal absorption; a favorable safety profile with minimal skin irritation or sensitization; [and] is generally well-tolerated by most skin types.” Because BEMT has already been in use in Europe, Asia, and Australia, we also have evidence that it’s safe and effective in real-life conditions.

Williams and Sarkas are optimistic that new and improved sunscreens could help Americans adopt habits to prevent a known danger that claims the lives of thousands of us each year: skin cancer. “It is estimated that daily sun protection can prevent up to 80% of skin cancer cases, and meaningfully reduce the risk of recurrence for those previously diagnosed with skin cancer,” Williams says. “Approval of BEMT in the U.S. will be a big step in the right direction towards reaching those public health ambitions.”

“This new ingredient is driving a greater conversation about sun protection—which is building greater consumer awareness—and therefore we expect that consumer use will grow as a result,” Sarkas says.

When can I see it in sunscreens?

As much as I’d love to bring a BEMT sunscreen to the pool with me this summer, it will take a little bit longer to see products with the new ingredient on store shelves. Now that the FDA has issued its final order on the ingredient, there is a 60-day waiting period before it can be sold in finished products.

The good news is that sunscreen formulations with BEMT are already in the works. Sarkas says, “Solésence has already begun experimenting with and developing concept formulas with bemotrizinol.” Williams adds, “Neutrogena will integrate this filter into its sunscreen innovation pipeline, leveraging its aesthetic benefits and gentleness profile into formulations.” So, when you’re shopping for your daily sunscreen this fall, keep an eye out for bemotrizinol on the drug facts panel.