In the north of Spain, it’s very common to be able to find vaca vieja, literally “old cows,” ones who have lived their lives of service and are slaughtered at a ripe old age, usually eight to 14 years. The steaks are then dry-aged for another month or two, and carefully, lovingly grilled over wood for the very best steak imaginable. In the U.S., you can find older cows in some parts of the country—at Bazaar Meat, my steakhouse concept, we’ve been able to get our vaca vieja from Mindful Meats in California’s Bay Area. Ask your butcher if they’re ever able to find it—the more we demand these things, the more likely it is that we will have a future with the kinds of foods we love to eat!
From Spain My Way: Eat, Drink, and Cook Like a Spaniard by José Andrés with Sam Chapple-Sokol. Copyright © 2026 by José Andrés. Excerpted by permission of Ecco, an imprint of HarperCollins Publishers.












