I can never have enough plants. It’s one of those side effects of loving both indoor and outdoor gardening. While I definitely enjoy buying new plants, I get an even bigger thrill from multiplying the ones I already have. Over the years, I’ve learned that propagation doesn’t have to be complicated, fussy, or expensive. In fact, most of the plants I own have come from just a few simple methods I use over and over again.
Once you realize how easy it is to turn one plant into many, it becomes a little addictive. Here are my go-to ways to turn one plant into dozens for free.
Division: My Number One Propagation Method
I love instant gratification, so it’s no surprise that division is my favorite propagation method. It’s quick, beginner-friendly, and honestly hard to mess up. Division simply means splitting one plant into two or more sections to create new plants. I use this method most often for perennials, herbs, and some of my houseplants because it gives instant results and helps overcrowded plants thrive again.
Here’s how I do it:
1. Water the plant well first. Hydrated roots are less likely to break or dry out, which helps reduce transplant shock and makes recovery easier.
2. Let it sit and hydrate for an hour or two, then remove it from the pot or dig up the clump. If digging outdoors, try to keep as much of the root ball intact as possible.
3. Gently pull apart obvious offshoots or “pups.” If the plant is dense, use a soil knife or spade to cut sections apart. Make sure each division has healthy roots and active growth.
4. Replant immediately, water thoroughly, and keep it out of direct sun (if it’s a sun lover) for a few days while it settles in.
Stem Cuttings: My Favorite for Houseplants and Tomatoes
Stem cuttings are probably the most popular propagation method for houseplant gardeners, but they also work great for vegetables and outdoor plants. I use this method most often for leggy houseplants, struggling plants, and especially tomato suckers: the small side shoots that grow between the main stem and branches of a tomato plant. Since suckers root incredibly easily, you can simply snip one off and plant it to grow a whole new tomato plant for free! It’s one of the easiest ways to save a struggling plant or make extras to share with friends.
Here’s how I do it:
- Cut a healthy stem just below a node, the small bump or joint where leaves grow from the stem. This is where new roots will form.
- Remove the lower leaves so they won’t sit in water or soil and rot.
- Place the cutting in water or moist soil. Bonus tip: If placing in soil, dip the ends in root hormone to speed up the process!
- Keep the cutting in bright, indirect light and keep the soil moist (if you planted it), not soggy.
- In soil: after a few weeks, gently tug on the stem. If there’s resistance, roots have formed and your new plant is established. In water: once you see the visible roots, you can plant in soil.
Leaf Propagation: My Lazy Succulent Method
Leaf propagation can be a little trickier because success depends on cleanly removing the leaf at the point where it connects to the stem. That connection point contains the cells needed to grow new roots and baby plants. While this method doesn’t work for every plant, I’ve had great success using it with succulents. Honestly, my method is pretty lazy: fallen leaves, a tray, and patience.
Here’s how I do it:
- Remove or collect healthy leaves, making sure the entire leaf comes off cleanly.
- Place the leaves on a dry tray. I don’t even bother putting them on soil because succulent leaves already store enough water and nutrients to support early root and baby plant growth. The ends will naturally callus over within a day or two.
- Here’s where the patience comes in: leave them alone for a few weeks in a dry spot with bright, indirect light. No water or soil needed—just patience.
- Eventually, the leaves will start sending out roots, followed by tiny baby plants forming at the ends where the leaves were attached to the stem.
- Once the parent leaf shrivels up, plant the new succulents in soil.
Seed Saving: The Low-Effort Seeds I Actually Bother With
I do save seeds from some of my plants, but I keep it simple. I mostly stick with large, hardy seeds like beans, corn, garlic cloves, and garlic chives because they’re easy to collect, store, and replant. I usually skip tiny seeds, because they’re fussy to collect and, honestly, those seeds are cheap enough that I’d rather save myself the trouble.
Here’s how I do it:
- Choose the healthiest, strongest plants to save seeds from.
- Let the seeds fully mature and dry on the plant before collecting them.
- Gather the seeds and brush off any dirt or plant debris.
- Store them in a labeled envelope, paper bag, or jar in a cool, dry spot.
- Replant them next season and repeat the process!
Debbie Wolfe is a writer, photographer, and author. She has contributed hundreds of home and garden articles and DIY tutorials to leading media outlets and retailers. Debbie covers all home and gardening topics and has published hundreds of DIY tutorials with step-by-step photography for leading home and garden media outlets.
















