As a contributing analyst in the Good Housekeeping Kitchen & Cooking Lab, I’ve been testing the latest toasters for over a year. I’ve toasted hundreds of slices of white bread and bagels in the Lab, plus plenty more at home. And we take toast very seriously in my household. If it’s not evenly golden and sturdy enough to support a mountain of scrambled eggs or mashed avocado, it doesn’t pass the test.

Though I’m always looking for appliances with the best technical results in the Lab, you can’t ignore looks, especially when the machine will sit on the counter at all times. Smeg has made a name for itself as a high-end brand for cute, vintage-looking appliances with soft, rounded edges, flashy chrome finishes, and attractive pastel color options. Retro design has been an increasingly popular trend recently, and the kitchen is a natural place to add a touch of ’50s flair to your home.

The Smeg Retro Two-Slice Toaster might be one of the brand’s most iconic products, but it’s not cheap. I tested the toaster to see if it’s more style than substance.

Dimensions12.25" x 7.75" x 7.75"
Shade settings6
FunctionsReheat, Defrost, Cancel, Bagel
Slice capacityTwo-slice

What I like about the Smeg Retro Toaster

Design and color options

If you’re into the vintage ’50s-era looks of Smeg appliances, you’ll likely love the sweet design of this toaster. Plus, it probably comes in your favorite color. Smeg makes the Retro Two-Slice in over a dozen shades with glossy and matte finishes, and often collaborates with designers on limited releases.

Excellent toasting performance

What I really love is that despite looking like an appliance you nabbed at a thrift shop, the Smeg toaster performs like a modern appliance that meets the high expectations of today’s consumers, especially given the price.

Sliced toast arranged in a line in front of a retro Smeg toaster on a kitchen counter.

To test this toaster in the Lab, I toasted white bread on five different settings (low, medium-low, medium, medium-high, and high) to visually assess browning. The toaster produced excellent color gradation from barely colored to crisp and dark, without burning, with a nice variety of golden and tan in between.

Each slice was also evenly colored from top to bottom and front to back.

A row of toasted bread slices lined up next to a cream-colored toaster on a countertop.

I also tested for consistency by toasting five consecutive batches of bread with just a few seconds between batches. The slices came out largely identical, which means the toaster adjusted the cooking time to account for the rising temperature.

Easy operation

The toaster also earned top marks for ease of use, thanks to its simple dial and lever. Even small pieces of toast pop out high enough for safe removal without risking burned fingertips, and the toaster has a removable crumb tray for cleaning. It also has buttons for bagels, defrost, reheat, and cancel.

What I don't love

As with most Smeg appliances, you’re paying a premium for the unique design. In a world of boxy, stainless steel kitchen gear, it’s hard to find a toaster that guests might compliment, but that comes at a price of over $200.

The Smeg toaster is also slightly slower than other models we’ve tested. The medium setting takes over two minutes and 20 seconds, and the highest setting takes over three and a half minutes. For comparison, our top-tested toaster, the Cuisinart Custom Select Two-Slice, takes one minute and 19 seconds on medium and about two and a half minutes on high. I still think it’s worth the wait for an evenly colored piece of toast that you don’t have to put down again.

If you mostly eat long slices of artisanal sourdough, you’ll have to cut them in half to fit in the Smeg slots, which are better suited to sandwich bread, bagels, and English muffins.

And finally, if you prefer a more modern design, a smart toaster, or a touchscreen operation, this midcentury toaster might not be for you.

Bottom line: Is the Smeg Two-Slice Toaster worth it?

The Smeg Retro Two-Slice Toaster is a great choice if you care about aesthetics and don’t mind paying a little more for an appliance you’ll actually want to display. And even if looks aren’t your priority, this toaster operates well, so you get the best of both worlds: style and substance.

In fact, I was so impressed by the Smeg toaster during testing that I replaced my previous toaster with the Retro Two-Slice and have been very happy with my breakfasts for weeks.

Why trust Good Housekeeping?

Lizzy Briskin is a contributing product analyst in the GH Kitchen Lab, where she conducted the latest round of toaster testing. She considers herself a toast perfectionist and makes at least 20 pieces a week for her family.