Despite their '90s heyday, thin eyebrows are no longer having their moment in the spotlight. After years of over-tweezing and over-waxing the hair above our lids into oblivion, the quest to make our brows look fuller can seem like a fading dream. But you should know that all hope is not lost.

According to both makeup artists and dermatologists, there are a plethora of ways to get fuller-looking brows. Whether you’re looking to grow your brows back to their fluffy glory days or simply need some advice on how to achieve the look with makeup, we have it all laid out right here for you.

What causes thinning eyebrows?

The first step to achieving healthy, full brows is to identify the cause of their thinning. “There are lots of reasons why eyebrows can get thinner over time, the most common of which are damaged follicles as a consequence of chronic overplucking,” says celebrity makeup artist Jenny Patinkin.

Medical conditions can be another source of brow thinning, according to Michael Tassavor, M.D., M.S., board-certified dermatologist and attending physician at Medical Dermatology and Cosmetic Surgery in New York City. “Medical causes include alopecia areata, thyroid disease (outer-third thinning), frontal fibrosing alopecia—which often shows up first as eyebrow loss in postmenopausal women—and telogen effluvium from physiologic stress,” he says. “The key distinction [to know is that] non-scarring loss (where follicle openings are still visible) can regrow; scarring loss is permanent.”

What can be done to make brows look fuller?

After identifying the cause of your brow thinning, you can then evaluate the right approach to create a fuller look. To encourage eyebrow hair growth, Dr. Tassavor suggests “stop tweezing to let follicles recover, and treat any underlying driver like thyroid disease or a skin condition.” He also recommends treatments like topical minoxidil and bimatoprost (treatments that encourages eyebrow hair growth), though you should consult your doctor before making any decisions.

While you are trying to grow hair back, or if you can no longer grow hair, Patinkin suggests using makeup to mimic fullness. “Using a brow pencil that adheres to the skin is a good choice,” she says. “If you need to fill in gaps in your brows, a thin pencil or a pen fine enough to make brow sized strokes can work wonders.”

Another way to create the look of a full brow, without regrowing your hair, is with cosmetic pigment techniques such as microblading or shading. “Microblading uses fine hair-like strokes to mimic individual brow hairs—it's semipermanent, typically lasting a year or two, and needs touch-ups to stay natural-looking,” Dr. Tassavor says. “Traditional tattooing or permanent makeup goes deeper and lasts longer, and microshading (a powdered, softer effect) suits people who want more of a filled-in look rather than individual strokes.” But, he notes that the effectiveness of your results will depend upon your pigment choice and the skill of the artist you select.

If fluffy brows are your desire, “I recommend using a powder under a tinted or clear gel,” Patinkin adds. “The powder grabs onto each hair to add volume and the gel locks it in place.”

A routine for fuller-looking brows

If you’re looking for fuller brows achieved with makeup, Patinkin suggests following these tips. She notes not every step is necessary every day, so use your personal preference as a baseline.

  • Use a micro or slanted tip eyeliner pencil: This kind of pencil can help you outline your brows. Be sure to softly brush through your brows afterwards with a spoolie to soften up any hard lines.
  • Fill in large gaps: Make short strokes following the same natural position as your brow pattern. “Remember that it's important to keep your pencils nice and sharp so you can get thin, brow-sized strokes,” Patinkin says, though she warns not to get too heavy handed. “Filling in every tiny gap can make brows look unnatural, and possibly too thick for your face.”
  • Use a brow powder: This can be applied with a fine-tipped brow brush. Though, note that the powder will adhere to hairs and not to the skin.
  • Lightly coat them with a clear or tinted gel: “Gels can get a little clumpy and thick during application,” Patinkin says. “So, I suggest wiping off some of the product on the applicator before lightly running it through your brows.”