You make sure to drink plenty of water and use that viral lip scrub that everyone swears by, but you still can't wrap your head around the fact that your lips are still extremely dry. Here's the truth: sometimes, it's just the weather. "As the weather gets cooler and drier, the thin skin of the lips tends to dry out faster than the rest of our skin," says Erum Ilyas, M.D.
Plus, it doesn't help that your lips are naturally prone to dryness since they are very thin. "They are the thinnest skin on our bodies—they don't have the protective layer that say your back has," explains Mona Gohara, M.D. and associate clinical professor of dermatology at Yale University.
There are plenty of causes and reasons beyond this, so we talked to four dermatologists for their insights and tips to ultimately soften dry, chapped lips. Here are eight tips that can help:
Check your routine for lip-drying culprits.
According to Kseniya Kobets, M.D., director of cosmetic dermatology at Montefiore Einstein Advanced, irritation often comes from your own skincare routine, like retinoids, exfoliating acids, makeup removing wipes, and even active serums.
"When these products contain retinols and vitamin C or hydroxy acids, they can migrate onto the lips and cause dryness or dermatitis (even if you’re not actively applying them on the lips)," Dr. Kobets explains.
If your routine includes tretinoin or strong actives like Dr. Kobets mentioned, she recommends applying a protective layer of petrolatum (petroleum jelly) to your lips. Some other everyday beauty items that may contribute to chapped lips include:
- Matte lipsticks (especially long-wear formulas) can dry out lips if used consistently without prepping the lips by moisturizing first before using, says Morayo Adisa, M.D., medical director Dermatology Physicians Chicago and Kenilworth. "If someone loves a matte look, I recommend applying a hydrating lip serum underneath and removing the product gently at the end of the day, and watching out for any exacerbating or allergenic ingredients in it," advises Dr. Kobets.
- Lip plumpers often work by irritating the skin on the lips to make them swell slightly and look fuller temporarily. Afterwards, dry cracked skin can follow. "A tingly sensation is usually irritation, not true plumping," Dr. Kobets says. "Healthy lips should feel comfortable and calm, not stimulated."
- Flavored lip products or items with fragrance can irritate sensitive lips or trigger allergic reactions in some people, Dr. Adisa says.
- Certain toothpastes—"If you have dry cracked lips and some peeling or raw areas inside of your mouth, consider changing your toothpaste or mouthwash to one free of sodium laureth sulfate," says Dr. Ilyas.
Don't lick or pick dry skin.
"If you have dry lips, do anything but lick and pick them," warns Dr. Gohara. If you do, you run the risk of making the situation worse and causing something called Lip Licker's Dermatitis. It starts out as red, irritated skin on the lips, but could then turn into a painful, unsightly ring around your entire mouth.
Choose products with nourishing ingredients.
Every dermatologist we spoke to for this story agreed that petroleum jelly—like Vaseline—is your best friend. It seals in moisture and protects your skin barrier from harsh weather or irritants. However, "it doesn't add hydration and only prevents water loss extremely well," Dr. Kobets says, explaining that may be the reason why severely cracked lips might not feel hydrated even with consistent use.
That's why GH Beauty Lab Senior Chemist Danusia Wnek says to look out for lip and skin conditioners like emollients to fill in cracks and hydrate compromised skin (think ingredients like mineral or plant oil). Look for a lip balm made with natural oils, ceramides, and hyaluronic acid, which is a natural water absorber, bringing hydration into your skin.
Here are our experts' favorite lip balms:
- "Seaweed Bath Co. Clear Mineral Lip Shine SPF 20 is both protective and healing. It hydrates with shea butter and has zinc mineral sunscreen to protect from the sun, especially important if you plan to be outdoors. It’s also chock full of antioxidant vitamins and minerals and is nontoxic, which is particularly important when it comes to products applied around the mouth," shares Dr. Adisa.
- "CeraVe Healing Ointment is another great option because it combines petrolatum with ceramides and hyaluronic acid for added barrier support," says Dr. Kobets.
- "EltaMD UV Lip Balm and CoTZ mineral-based lip SPF options are good choices if you need SPF on the lips," Dr. Kobets continues.
- Avène Cicalfate Restorative Lip Cream is another of Dr. Kobets's faves. The brand has been recommended to us on multiple times, specifically in cases for sensitive skin.
- Neosporin Overnight Renewal Therapy is Wnek's go-to for deep hydration, which has the over-the-counter active ingredient petrolatum. She says, "It's the only product that heals my lips when they become chapped and inflamed. I use it a few nights in a row until my lips return to their non-inflamed state."
Time your lip care strategically.
First things first, lip treatment should be applied to clean lips, ideally right after skincare and before makeup, per Dr. Kobets. "If you’re using a lip serum with hydrating ingredients like glycerin or hyaluronic acid, apply that first and then seal it with an occlusive like petroleum jelly or a healing ointment with dimethicone," she says.
But if you're using skincare products with harsh chemicals, Dr. Ilyas advises to apply petroleum jelly or Chapstick to your lips beforehand. "This helps to have a protective barrier on your lips to avoid the irritation they can cause," she explains.
Dr. Ilyas adds that it's best to treat your lips with a nourishing lip mask overnight. This is especially important for people that sleep with their mouth open since they're far more prone to chapped lips. Apply white petrolatum or Aquaphor in the corners of the mouth to create a barrier over your lips.
Apply a lip scrub once a week.
Exfoliating can help take away some of the dry peeling skin that makes it almost impossible to apply lipstick smoothly. Then, follow with a lip balm or lip mask. "The raw skin left over will need to be protected to allow healing to occur," Dr. Ilyas advises. "I personally love the Sugar Lip Polish scrub by Fresh."
Use medicated lip balms sparingly.
If you have severely cracked lips that require special treatment, a 1% hydrocortisone cream can help, says Dr. Gohara. However, you want to be careful to use it only on your lips and not the surrounding area—and you never want to use it for more than two weeks at a time (at that point, you should contact your dermatologist).
"These can feel soothing temporarily but may actually dry out or irritate lips with frequent and long-term regular use," warns Dr. Adisa.
Dr. Kobets agrees, adding, "Many medicated lip balms contain menthol, camphor, phenol, or salicylic acid, which can feel soothing initially but often worsen irritation or allergic reactions over time. If lips are inflamed or cracked, I usually recommend stopping all flavored, SPF, or medicated products and switching to plain petrolatum or a gentle healing ointment with dimethicone."
Stay hydrated.
It's obvious, and you've might've heard this a million times—but drink your water! Healthy, smooth skin and lips need lots of it. Stefani Sassos, our Nutrition and Fitness Lab Director, is a registered dietitian in the Good Housekeeping Institute and says a good diet includes at least six to eight cups of H2O each day, depending on how active you are.
Head to the doctor when you experience prolonged pain or cracking.
A good signal that you're dealing with something more serious is when cracked lips is accompanied with lip swelling, bleeding, or pain, Dr. Adisa says.
"If cracked lips or painful corners of the mouth persist longer than a week or two, worsen with burning or blistering, or don’t improve with gentle barrier care, it’s time to see a board-certified dermatologist. Sometimes it’s not dryness; it can be contact dermatitis, perioral dermatitis, or angular cheilitis caused by overgrowth of yeast bacteria," Dr. Kobets adds.
