I used to be a cheesemonger and sold artisan cheese to chefs in Chicago for almost ten years, and when I think of pasta, (and I often do), I dream of cacio e pepe. It’s one of the four classic Roman pasta preparations that rule the culinary culture in the region. (The others are pasta alla carbonara, alla gricia, and all’amatriciana.) The sharp, salty flavor of a hunk of Pecorino Romano cheese, plus freshly ground black pepper, is crucial to the rustic flavor of this simple dish.
The best way to buy Pecorino Romano
I buy it in small wedges, preferably cut fresh from the 55-pound wheel, and whiz it in the food processor for a rough, toothy texture that is fine enough to melt instantly. I then keep the pebbly ground cheese in the fridge to add to Roman-style (and frankly, most other) pastas, to sprinkle on roasted veggies, salads, and to mix into dressings.
I prefer buying it from a cheese counter rather than purchasing the shrink-wrapped pieces because the flavor is so much better. I sometimes grate it fresh from the wedge to finish a pizza (even a frozen one) or pasta to add flavor and flourish at the table.
What about Parmesan cheese?
Don’t get me wrong, I love Parmigiano-Reggiano, the so-called King of Cheeses, for its savory, caramelly, nutty flavor that brings umami to every plate. But more often I seek the punchy, salty hit of Pecorino Romano–with garlicky greens, tomato-based pastas, and even Caesar salad dressing. When you are hitting the romaine with good olive oil, anchovies, lemon juice, fresh garlic, and sharp black pepper, why aren’t you choosing the more robust cheese?
Dishes with olives, roasted peppers, anything grilled with a bit of a char pair beautifully with the slightly pungent, briny, rustic taste of a true Pecorino Romano. Not to mention, it’s less expensive per pound than Parmigiano-Reggiano.
What's the difference between Pecorino Romano and Parmesan cheese?
Pecorino Romano and Parmesan are both aged Italian (or Italian-style) cheeses made in large wheels. Pecorino Romano, however, is made from sheep milk (”sheep” is “pecora” in Italian) while Parmigiano-Reggiano is made from cow’s milk and is a protected designation of origin (PDO) cheese produced in specific regions of Italy. “Parmesan” can refer either to Parmigiano-Reggiano or to non-PDO cheeses made in the same style, particularly in the United States.
Unlike other pecorino cheeses—such as the milder Pecorino Toscano or the softer, younger Pecorino Sardo—Pecorino Romano is aged longer and is saltier, firmer, and more assertive in flavor, which makes it especially well suited for grating over pasta.
Is Pecorino Romano the same as just Romano cheese?
Pecorino Romano cheese possesses a PDO (protected designation of origin) and thus can only be made in particular regions of Italy—primarily Sardinia, Lazio, and the province of Grosseto in Tuscany—with specific guidelines regulating its production and aging (it must be aged a minimum of five months for table cheese, and at least eight months for grating cheese).
Cheese just called “Romano,” on the other hand, generally refers to an American-made version of a hard, salty cheese that can be made from cow’s milk, sheep’s milk, goat’s milk (or a blend) without the nuances in flavor and texture that a heritage Pecorino Romano from Italy might possess. Look for Italian brands like Fulvi or Locatelli, or the initials PDO (or DOP in Italian) on the labels at your cheese counter or grocery store.
