There are no hair decisions that prompt as much soul-searching for older women as getting a fringe. It's just a small snip on a few inches of hair, but the angst is immense. You know all the potential anti-ageing benefits, but you've suffered through a few regrettable iterations in the past. What version will you get this time, at 40+?
Will it hide your wrinkles, sculpt your cheekbones, and reap endless 'it's taken years off you!' compliments? (Look how great Demi Moore, 63, looked when she revisited her youthful Striptease fringe with a clip-in.) Or will you be cursing your choice before you've even slipped off the salon gown?
It's a real dilemma, because a fringe is a decision that's stuck slap-bang in the middle of your forehead. Get it right, and it's practically a face-lift in a haircut. But get it wrong, and you're reliving every school photo disaster – only this time, you can't blame your mum for it.
Hence, having a fringe is a decision that women will (quite sensibly) weigh up for a while, says celebrity hairdresser and salon founder Edward James, whose clientele includes royalty and A-listers like Joanna Lumley.
‘A well-cut fringe can be incredibly flattering as we get older because it softens the face and draws attention to the eyes,’ he tells us. ‘But there are several things you have to consider before you commit.’
Think about your hair texture
This is vital if your hair is quite fine or thin. ‘Fine, fragile hair behaves very differently when cut shorter around the face, so you need a style that works with the way your hair naturally falls,’ Edward advises.
For instance, Emma Bunton's new delicate fringe works perfectly for her fine hair texture, because it adds shape without taking away too much hair. And that is a crucial consideration.
'Cutting in a fringe on fine hair needs a little more thought because you are effectively taking hair away from the rest of the haircut,' says Edward. 'If too much density is removed from the front, the hair can start to look thinner overall.'
If your hair is prone to frizz or flyaways, you'll need to take that into account to help your fringe sit smoothly. ‘If frizz is an issue or blow-drying is a challenge, smoothing treatments such as a keratin service or anti-frizz products like Color Wow Dream Coat can make styling far easier,' says Edward.
Consider your face shape
Second, think about your face shape and how a fringe interacts with light and shadow. ‘A well-cut fringe can highlight the eyes and cheekbones, but if it is too heavy it can create shadows across the face. For anyone concerned about tired eyes or loss of brightness around the face, keeping the fringe soft and light is key.’
Finally, think about lifestyle – and be honest! ‘Fringes look best when maintained regularly, so choosing a shape that suits how often you can visit the salon and how much styling you enjoy doing at home will make the biggest difference,‘ he says.
Most flattering fringes for women 40+
1: Soft side-swept fringe
This is probably the most universally flattering fringe, says Edward. ‘It blends gently into the haircut and creates softness around the face without looking severe. It works particularly well on oval, heart and longer face shapes. Reese Witherspoon is a great example of this style, as the fringe moves naturally and feels effortless. It’s also forgiving if you can’t get it trimmed every few weeks because it grows out gracefully.’
2: Long curtain fringe
Curtain fringes frame the cheekbones and open up the face while still giving the effect of a fringe, says Edward. ‘They are ideal for women who want softness without a full commitment. This style works best on medium to thick hair and suits softly wavy textures. '
Davina McCall is a great reference for this relaxed, elegant fringe, which works brilliantly both up and down. 'Styling usually involves a blow-dry with a round brush or velcro rollers for lift, along with a lightweight volumising spray such as Aveda Abundant Blowout All Over Volumizing Spray,' says Edward.
3: Feathered airy fringe
A feathered fringe is softly layered and slightly textured so it moves naturally rather than sitting heavily on the forehead, Edward explains. ‘This style works beautifully on finer hair because it keeps the front light and avoids removing too much density. '
'The softness keeps the look light around the face and reduces the heavier shadow that a solid fringe can sometimes create. Jane Fonda has worn versions of this feathered fringe for years.’ Nicole Kidman, Margot Robbie and Jennifer Lawrence have flirted with it, too.
Fringe styles that can be less flattering
Approach with caution - these styles don't suit everyone
1: Very heavy blunt fringes
A blunt fringe can look striking, but it needs careful consideration. ‘As the face changes with age, a thick straight fringe can create a strong horizontal line that adds heaviness rather than softness. On darker hair in particular it can look helmet-like if the shine and condition aren’t excellent,' says Edward.
(Let's call it 'French' - if you recall that episode of Fleabag!)
'That said, when done well it can look incredibly chic,' says Edward. 'Claudia Winkleman is a great example of a blunt fringe worn beautifully, with the fringe cut close to the lash line for drama.’
2: Overly short micro-fringes
Chic? Edgy? Or just a hairdresser who snipped off an inch or so too much? 'Micro fringes can look fashion-forward but they’re difficult to balance with many face shapes and hair textures,' says Edward. 'They can feel severe and require frequent maintenance to look intentional. While they can be playful, they’re not the most forgiving option.'
3: Overly rounded “helmet” fringes
Highly rounded, heavily styled fringes can quickly look dated. 'The classic Purdey cut worn by Joanna Lumley was iconic, but if the shape is too rounded it can cut across the cheekbones and create shadow around the eye area. Modern fringes should move naturally and feel soft rather than sculpted.'
And if you’re still weighing it up? Try a clip-in fringe before you commit. ‘Beauty Works clip-in fringes are particularly natural looking and many stylists use them to help clients visualise how a fringe might suit their face shape before making a permanent change,’ says Edward. GH beauty director is also a fan of Curated's curtain bangs – read the review here.
