Never underestimate the power of a great eyebrow. They’re the architectural frame of your whole face, capable of lifting, defining and balancing your features – even subtly turning back the clock without anyone quite knowing why you look fresher. But get the shape wrong, and they can drag down your entire look, especially as you get older.
Begin by taking a good look at your brows, and assessing for any (perfectly natural) changes that time has brought. ‘As we age, our brows naturally thin, lose density and can drop slightly at the outer corners,’ explains eyebrow expert Karen Betts. ‘These subtle changes can make the eye area appear heavier or less defined, often without us consciously noticing why.’
Happily, all this can be flipped to your advantage. Since eyebrows play such a powerful role in our overall appearance, even a simple update will provide an ageless boost with maximum impact and minimal fuss. ‘In my experience, they are one of the most effective and often overlooked ways to look fresher without dramatically changing your routine as you get older,’ says Karen.
How can I find the right brow shape for me?
This begins with the understanding that brows should ‘enhance your bone structure but never overpower your natural beauty,’ says Kim O’Sullivan, founder of Brow Aid and The Dublin Makeup Academy. ‘The goal is not to create a ‘trendy’ shape, but one that works effortlessly with your features.’
What are the most ageing shapes to avoid?
The key to modern, youthful and flattering is adopting a less-is-more approach. ‘Focus on softness and gentle shaping rather than sculpting,’ Kim advises. ‘Avoid overly sharp angles or dramatic arches, which look ageing. Follow your natural curve and enhance it subtly. A soft, slightly lifted shape opens the eye area and feels fresh without looking overdone.’
Never attempt to create a new shape at the expense of natural fullness, she urges. ‘Avoid over-plucking or thinning the brow too much. I would also advise that overly straight, trend-led shapes often overpower mature features.'
Shaped poorly, the outer edge of brows can also add years to the face, adds Kim. ‘Tail placement is key. Too low can drag the face downward; too high can look unnatural. Follow your natural bone structure for the most flattering result.’
Will my best brow shape be different now I’m older?
Very likely. ‘It is completely normal for your ideal brow shape to evolve,’ says Karen. ‘One of the most common mistakes I see is women holding on to the shape they had 20 years ago.’
That said, you may benefit from restoring some of what time has taken away. Poorly-placed plucking in the past can lead to an ageing shape, lacking in soft youthful lift. ‘Over time, the arch can flatten and the tail can shorten, particularly if brows have been over-tweezed in the past. When this happens, the face can lose some of its natural structure,’ says Karen. A good brow expert can create a plan to put this right, through pro shaping, supporting regrowth, and patience.
Should I tailor your brow shape to my face?
Yes! Your brow shape should balance and complement your face shape, says Karen. ‘The brow should always work to create harmony and proportion. Small structural adjustments can subtly rebalance the face as you get older.’ This is her advice for each face shape.
Round Face
Aim for: A slightly higher arch and a gently elongated tail.
Why: Round faces tend to have softer angles and similar width and length. Adding lift creates vertical definition, helping the face appear longer and more sculpted. Avoid overly rounded brows, which can exaggerate fullness.
Long Face
Aim for: A flatter brow shape. Avoid high arches.
Why: A flatter brow visually shortens the face by reducing vertical emphasis. The aim is subtle horizontal balance rather than lift.
Square Face
Aim for: A soft angled arch. Avoid very sharp or high peaks.
Why: Square faces often have strong jawlines and defined bone structure. The brow should soften rather than compete with those angles.
Heart-Shaped Face
Aim for: A soft, rounded brow. Avoid overly extended or dramatic tails.
Why: Heart-shaped faces are wider at the forehead and narrower at the chin. A softer shape reduces emphasis at the top of the face and creates balance.
Oval Face
Aim for: A soft, natural arch.
Why: Oval faces are naturally balanced and tend to suit most brow styles. Refinement rather than reinvention is key.
Rectangular Face
Aim for: A gentle curve with moderate thickness.
Why: Similar to a long face but often with stronger angles. A gentle curve softens the look while moderate fullness prevents the brow appearing too minimal.
These adjustments need to be done subtly, and take your natural brows into account. The safest option is to see a professional brow artist - they’re trained to assess your face, then create a flattering, tailored-to-you shape which you can maintain at home.
‘If your brows have become sparse, uneven or overplucked in the past, it is especially worth consulting a specialist,’ advises Karen. ‘Hormonal changes, particularly during perimenopause and menopause — can affect brow density. A professional can advise on shape, colour and treatment options that feel natural and appropriate.’
Which celebrities are getting it right at 50-plus?
Jennifer Lopez
Her brows are softly structured with a subtle lift at the outer edge. That slight elevation opens the eyes and keeps everything looking fresh, says Karen.
Catherine Zeta-Jones
She maintains fullness without harshness. The density through the centre of the brow balances her strong features beautifully, says Karen.
Michelle Obama
Her brows are softly rounded and natural. They frame her face without overpowering her features, proof that brows should support, not dominate, says Karen.
Julianne Moore
She wears a soft, lifted arch that perfectly complements her oval face — structured but never harsh, says Kim.
How can I shape my own brows?
Any major reshaping is a job for the pros, but even if you just want a simple DIY tidy-up, there are ground rules to follow. ‘The front of the brow must be soft, natural and in line with what you were blessed with. Don’t pluck inwards as it looks unbalanced,’ says celebrity brow pro Sherrille Riley. ‘Pluck cautiously and conservatively. Focus on removing fluff, nothing else, because that’s what gives you a clean, naturally defined brow shape.’
If you’ve had your brows done in a salon, the upkeep is easy. “Day to day, just tweeze out the odd hair that’s grown out of place, but never tamper with the shape,” says Shavata Singh, founder of Shavata Brow Salons. ‘Then you’ll wake up one morning and the definition will be gone. That’s when you’ll know it’s time for another eyebrow shape.’ Once every 4-6 weeks is enough.
