Our makeup bags have changed a lot in recent years. Powder blush has made way for cream formulas, liquid liner has been swapped for softer kajal pencils, and full-coverage foundations have given way to skin tints. Yet one beauty staple has remained largely unchanged: black mascara.
As the default, black mascara is something many of us have never thought to question beyond the wand. But according to the experts, it’s not always the most flattering option.
‘Black mascara can really bring out the eyes,’ says celebrity makeup artist Mira Parmar. ‘But, over 50, there’s the risk of it looking harsh and ageing.’
Enter: coloured mascaras. Now, hear us out. Coloured formulas have come a long way since the electric blues of the 80s. Modern shades are all about subtlety, with clever hues that brighten the eyes without the harshness of black.
As Mira explains, ‘We’ve seen coloured mascaras growing in popularity over the last few years, but this year we’re toning it down. It’s a really nice way to mix up your makeup without stepping outside your comfort zone.’
‘With the right shade, you can create a softer, more youthful look, rather than one that feels harsh against the rest of your makeup,’ she says. ‘This is why it can look especially flattering on mature women.’
Picking your most flattering shade comes down to colour theory. Some hues will complement your natural eye colour and add warmth, while others create a subtle contrast that makes the eyes appear brighter.
No need to cast your mind back to art lessons, Mira has done the colour theory for us. Speaking with GH, she tells us the best mascara shades, and who they flatter the most.
Brown mascara
Flattering for: Brown, hazel, blue and green eyes
Brown is the new black, according to Mira. It’s the shade she says is the most universally flattering.
‘I love brown mascara because it’s just that bit softer than black. It really softens the features and is much easier on the eye,’ she explains.
Because it creates a softer effect, Mira says it’s a particularly good choice for mature women, especially those with lighter hair. ‘When you have really light blonde or white hair, black mascara can look especially harsh. Here, brown mascara is incredible.’
If you’re not quite ready to ditch black mascara altogether (or you simply want some drama for evening soirées) Mira recommends trying an ombré effect. ‘There are no rules. You can mix shades. I like to start with a brown mascara at the lashline and tip the ends off with black for a more lifted, dramatic look.’
It’s a shade that GH beauty assistant Zara swears by, ditching the black mascara altogether in favour of Benefit’s BADgal Bounce Mascara, which was recently given a chocolate brown update.
Beauty director Lynne has also been won over by RevitaLash’s new Length Define Tubing Mascara in Dark Brown. ‘I’m a black mascara diehard, even in my 50s, and I can’t remember ever wearing any other mascara option, apart from the odd novelty neon in my youth. So I’m honestly surprised by how much I like this. I always assumed brown mascara gave a rather diluted effect when, in fact, it still frames and defines eyes beautifully, just with a softer finish. It’s lovely for 50+ – like taking a stroke of eyeliner and gently blurring it with a brush. Okay, I’m not giving up black – nothing else cuts through at night-time, for me – but this is a brilliant daytime switch. AND it’s a tubing formula so guaranteed not to smudge.
Burgundy mascara
Flattering for: Brown, blue and green eyes
Think this will make eyes look sore and tired? Absolutely not. ‘I love burgundy mascaras. They’re another great option because they soften the features,’ says Mira. ‘It’s also a shade that feels perfect for autumn and winter.’
Much like brown, burgundy is surprisingly wearable and flattering on just about everyone.
On brown eyes, it enhances their natural richness and warmth. However, it really shines with blue eyes, as the contrast makes blue eyes appear brighter.
Beauty director Lynne agrees. ‘Okay, brown mascara felt like a safe option but burgundy? I felt like this was a product I’d try once for testing and file under “well, I gave it a go”. Wrong, wrong, wrong. Clinique’s Black Honey Mascara is the magic of the iconic lip shade, turned into a magic wand. The lippie, as you’ll probably know, is a sheer burgundy/black shade that’s wearable on everyone and gives just the right amount of drama without ever looking harsh. The mascara repeats that trick, with a rich burgundy/black shade that looks utterly beautiful… and different without anyone being able to put a finger on quite why. I’ve had a few “your eye makeup looks nice” comments, and zero “god, why are you wearing weird purple mascara?” The burgundy undertone is very subtle, yet the brightening impact is something the eye really picks up.’
Plum mascara
Flattering for: Green and hazel eyes
Plum is another of Mira’s favourite shades. Think of it as the cooler-toned counterpart to burgundy, making it especially flattering on green and hazel eyes.
It’s a shade that made the line-up in Kosas’ latest mascara launch, Soulglazer, which GH beauty assistant Zara has been putting to the test. ‘Although plum is often recommended for green and hazel eyes, purple is one of my favourite colours to wear, so I was curious to see how it would work on my brown eyes.’
‘The colour looks quite intimidating on the wand, but once applied, it’s surprisingly subtle. It gave me the same soft effect as my favourite brown mascara, but I was most impressed with how the cool tone enhanced the flecks of green in my brown eyes. If it can have that effect on my eyes, it’s easy to see why it would look so great on green eyes.’
Green and blue mascara
Best for: Green, hazel, brown and blue eyes
Even we can admit green and blue lashes sound the most daunting of all, conjuring up memories of the electric shades of the 80s. But don’t write it off just yet. Today’s shades are a far cry from those bold hues, with softer forest and deep navy tones that subtly enhance the eyes, and surprisingly don’t feel too far from black.
Mira says navy is a brilliant choice for blue eyes, since it creates a tonal look. The same thinking can be applied to green mascara on green eyes, where it will beautifully enhance the eye colour.
For brown and hazel eyes, green mascara might feel like the more unexpected choice, but it can make your eyes look brand new, subtly enhancing green or olive flecks in the iris.
