Being a great cosmetic doctor isn’t just about prescribing the right anti-ageing treatments and products to help skin look younger. It’s just as important to gently guide clients away from the daily skincare mistakes they see being made over and over again, particularly as women hit midlife, when there’s less wriggle room for error.
It’s something that leading aesthetic specialist Dr Christine Hall knows all about. ‘Skin changes as we get into 40s, 50s and beyond, and we need to adapt not just what we use but also how we use them,’ says Dr Hall, whose glowy skin transformations have made her one of the UK’s most in-demand cosmetic practitioners.
These are the avoidable anti-ageing skincare mistakes she believes we all need to wise up to as we get older.
Mistake: Thinking more is more
One of the biggest misconceptions in anti-ageing skincare is that more product equals better results, says Dr Hall. 'In reality, there is a limit to what the skin care absorb before products simply sit on top of each other. Applying excessive quantities doesn’t increase efficacy; instead, it can actually prevent subsequent products from penetrating and working properly.'
Mistake: Rushing your regime
Another common mistake that Dr Hall sees is busy midlife women rushing through their anti-ageing skincare routine, thinking they're being efficient. Unfortunately, the opposite is true. 'When we apply multiple products in quick succession, such as toner, serum and moisturiser, each layer may not have time to absorb before the next is applied,' she explains. 'From a formulation perspective, most products need a short window to interact with the skin barrier and settle.'
To ensure your anti-ageing products work as well as possible, she recommends leaving one to two minutes between steps.
Mistake: Missing the mark
Are your anti-ageing products going where they're actually needed, or are you wasting them? 'People dispense a blob of product into their palms, rub their hands together, and then apply it to the face,' says Dr Hall. 'If you do this, a surprising amount of product is wasted, as it's absorbed by the hands. A more efficient technique is to place small dots directly onto the face and gently spread or tap them in.'
This is inspired by the Korean skincare tapping technique known as 'Tok Tok': 'it not only minimises loss of product into the fingertips but may also gently stimulate superficial circulation,' Dr Hall advises
There is one very important exception though, and it's vital for any anti-ageing regime. 'Sunscreen must always be applied in the correct amount, because the full SPF rating is only achieved when the tested quantity is used,' she says.
Mistake: Being too rough
As oestrogen levels decline with age, skin becomes thinner, drier, and more delicate – and what you think is helping actually causing damage. 'This is why I advise being extra gentle with your anti-ageing skincare routine,' says Dr Hall. 'Avoid harsh tools, hot showers, and aggressive facial massage devices, as these can cause damage to the skin which can be temporary but also can result in things like broken blood vessels, which are permanent.’
Despite giving a deceptively smooth feel, physical scrubs can actually make mature skin age faster. 'The micro-trauma caused by manual exfoliation can be harder for ageing skin to repair, as resilience and recovery mechanisms are no longer as robust,' says Dr Hall. She recommends using a milder chemical exfoliant instead, such as PHAs: 'These can help to gently resurface the skin while being less disruptive.'
Mistake: Spending too much on moisturiser
Hydration feels lovely but meaningful anti-ageing changes come from clinically-proven actives: 'ingredients such as vitamin C, and retinoids are the cornerstone of effective long-term skin maintenance,' says Dr Hall. Often a great serum is the best way to deliver these.
She recommends focusing spending on an excellent retinoid ('Medik8’s Crystal Retinal range is particularly helpful because it uses a stepwise “retinol ladder”, making it easier to build tolerance safely) and a potent antioxidant.
'One standout example is SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic, a vitamin C serum with extensive clinical research behind it,' she says. 'When done properly, vitamin C can significantly improve brightness and environmental protection, and I’ve seen it transform the skin of many of my patients.'
Moisturisers, on the other hand, don’t need to be expensive to be good at their primary job: hydrating the skin while locking in (separately applied) anti-ageing actives. 'Hydrating ingredients such as glycerin, ceramides and hyaluronic acid are relatively affordable to formulate,' Dr Hall says. 'As long as the moisturiser supports hydration and the skin barrier effectively, a simple formula can work extremely well.'
If you're still tempted by luxury creams, do assess if they contain science as well as style. 'Beautifully-scented, indulgent creams often lack ingredients with proven anti-ageing benefits,' Dr Hall says. 'Also, fragranced formulations may also begin to trigger irritation.’ Remember, aggravation equals inflammation, which inevitably speeds up skin ageing.
