Hurtling down the icy slope, surrounded by mountain peaks, I take in the breathtaking view before I tumble, laughing, into the snow. I’m in the Austrian Alps - but not on a skiing holiday. It’s the middle of June and I’m on a toboggan, 3,000m up a mountain.
Summer for me and my husband, Pete, usually means a Med beach holiday, but with temperatures soaring across Europe, there’s been a 300% increase in online searches for ‘cooler holidays’ – and that includes us.
TUI is Good Housekeeping Reader Recommended for the quality of its booking service so we chose Zell am See for our ‘coolcation’ with TUI Lakes & Mountains.
On the shore of Lake Zell in the Salzburg Alps, it’s perfectly located for mountain activities and, with average summer temperatures peaking at 24°C, we’ll have the energy to make the most of them.
Why Austria?
With snow-capped peaks, sparkling lakes and flower-covered chalets, the Alps in summer offer the perfect blend of outdoor adventure and relaxation. Just over an hour south of Salzburg and once home to the von Trapp family, Zell am See is full of laid-back charm. Our friendly TUI reps, Mercedes and Nellie, tell us that people come here year after year to unwind, enjoying coffee and strudel in the cafes, gentle lakeside strolls and leisurely boat rides. As we sip cold beers on the lakeside terrace of the historic Grand Hotel, it’s easy to see why. But the hiking trails beckon, so it’s time to get out there.
Armed with recommendations from Mercedes and Nellie, it’s easy to explore at our own pace and we don’t even need to hire a car – all hotel guests receive a Guest Mobility Ticket, giving unlimited free travel on public transport in the Salzburg region, plus discounts on local attractions. TUI offers plenty of excursions, too, including a Sound Of Music tour of Salzburg and white-water rafting on the Saalbach river – all bookable through the reps or at TUI Musement.
Where to stay in Austria
Our retreat for the week is the four-star Hotel Tirolerhof, where four-night breaks start from around £1,251pp in summer (for two sharing, including flights and overseas transfers). Authentically Austrian, it’s been run by the Posch family since 1975 and is one of the friendliest hotels we’ve stayed in: we’re welcomed with a smile and chilled glasses of Prosecco. In a nod to its history, old photos line its walls, but the Tirolerhof is stylishly modern, with eco-credentials to match.
Arriving in our Junior Suite, we throw open the balcony doors to see yachts drifting past on Lake Zell. Thoughtful touches include a small backpack to borrow for days out (the hotel offers guided hikes, too). The bathroom is stocked with Elemis products, fluffy towels and bathrobes, which we don to head down to the hotel’s Aquarena Vital World. There’s a stunning indoor pool with satisfyingly vigorous water jets; a hot tub, saunas, steam rooms and relaxation areas with herbal teas and snacks. It’s the perfect place to recharge. On the hotel’s top floor is the Elements Panorama Spa, where I have a hot stone massage (from around £67pp) in a bright and airy treatment room overlooking the lake.
We wouldn’t normally opt for half-board, but after our first dinner, we’re glad that we did. The four-course fine-dining menu changes daily, featuring the best local produce paired with Austrian wines. Pete loved the venison goulash, and as a vegetarian I was well catered-for, too: the spinach spaetzl and the dark chocolate mousse with blood orange sorbet were delicious.
Half-board guests also enjoy a free afternoon tea in the hotel bar – we took ours into the beautiful garden – and there’s a gorgeous roof terrace, too.
What to do in Austria
We may be on a 'coolcation', but here in Zell am See it’s a comfortable 25°C, so we head to one of the three lakeside lidos for a swimming fix in the crystal-clear lake. There are diving boards and water trampolines (perfect for kids), plus swimming pools, paddle boarding and windsurfing. It’s an easy 11km walk around the lake, but we opt for a late-afternoon panoramic boat ride. Relaxing on deck with a cold drink, we happily deliberate over which beachside chalet we’d most like to live in.
For a bird’s-eye view of the lake, we take a five-minute bus ride to the Schmittenhöhe cable car, which whisks us up the mountain in moments. At 2,000m, it’s cooler up here, and we set off on one of the many hiking trails, marvelling at views of Austria’s highest mountain, Grossglockner, and basking in the clear mountain air.
In search of snow, the next day we head to Kaprun, Zell am See’s sister resort, 20 minutes away. We get off the bus at Sigmund Thun Klamm, where a boardwalk takes us through a spectacular gorge, past thundering waterfalls that shower us in an invigorating mist. The trail continues alongside a turquoise lake, Klammsee, a tranquil haven where we hear only birdsong and distant cowbells.
Picking up the bus at the end of the lake, our next stop is the Kitzsteinhorn cable car. Our goal is the 3,029m Top of Salzburg, and two cable cars and a hair-raising chairlift later, we’ve put on our fleeces (it’s just 11°C up here) and are gazing, awe-struck, at the glacier below. We warm up with some boozy hot chocolates, then grab two of the free toboggans and take an exhilarating ride in the snow.
Taking it easy the following day, we join a TUI coach excursion to the Bavarian town of Berchtesgaden (from £79pp), just across the border in Germany. Founded by monks in the 12th century, it’s a fascinating place, steeped in World War Two history, and there’s plenty of time to enjoy traditional beer and sausages (and a veggie burger for me) at the Golden Bear pub.
Heading back to Zell am See, we round off our day by watching the spectacular light and fountain show on the lake. We’re ‘coolcation’ converts and TUI’s Lakes & Mountains packages offer the best of both worlds – sun and swimming; snow and spas. Our beach holiday will just have to wait.
