How to Choose an Anti-Aging Serum for You, According to Experts

I know that getting older is a blessing—but I still want to look as young as possible while doing it. I’ve used anti-aging serums for decades and love how they help keep my skin looking smooth and hydrated.

But choosing an anti-aging serum isn’t one-size-fits-all. To help you find a good match, I spoke to dermatologists and Good Housekeeping Institute Beauty & Personal Care Lab experts about what to look for. And while serums can be a useful addition to your routine, don’t forget the most important anti-aging step: applying sunscreen every day.

“A serum is a lightweight skincare product that usually contains a concentrated amount of the active ingredient,” says Rachel Nazarian, M.D., F.A.A.D., board-certified dermatologist and founder of Nazarian Dermatology in New York City. “For those targeting anti-aging, it’s typically a more effective way to address some of the classic signs that come with age: wrinkles, sunspots, loss of volume, and texture. Because serums are generally very lightweight, they can be applied right after cleansing the face, before heavier, more hydrating products, such as lotions and creams.”

“Your mid-to-late 20s is a reasonable time to start, but there is no magic birthday,” says Mona Gohara, M.D., clinical professor of dermatology at the Yale School of Medicine. “Collagen production gradually begins to decline during this period, and prevention is generally easier than correction. Think of it as starting a 401(k) for your collagen: small, consistent investments can pay off over time. Sunscreen, however, is the most important skin longevity product at every age. SPF is our BFF.”

Shop by both skin type and concern. “First, identify your main goal, whether it is dryness, fine lines, discoloration, dullness, or loss of firmness,” Dr. Gohara says. “Then choose a formula your skin can comfortably tolerate. Someone with dry or sensitive skin may benefit from a hydrating, fragrance-free serum, while someone with oily or acne-prone skin may prefer a lightweight, noncomedogenic formula. Think of the concern as your destination and your skin type as the route you take to get there. The best serum is one that addresses your concern without irritating your skin.”

That depends on your biggest skincare concerns, but it’s best to shop for serums with well-known anti-aging ingredients like retinoids (retinol, retinal, retinyl palmitate, and others), vitamin C, and niacinamide. “Also, if possible, look for products that have clinical studies showing their efficacy in improving the signs of aging,” says GH Beauty Lab Reviews Analyst Chiara Butler. “These will tout phrases like ‘reduced the appearance of wrinkles by x%’ and ideally will mention how many people participated in the study and how long they used the product.”

You can find these claims on the label. Additionally, fragrance-free options may help sensitive skin. For those who are acne-prone, look for products labeled as “noncomedogenic” so that they won’t clog pores.

There’s truly an anti-aging serum out there for everyone. These are the most common active ingredient types:

✔️ Retinol: “A retinol serum is best for someone concerned about fine lines, uneven texture, discoloration, or loss of firmness,” Dr. Gohara says. “Retinol encourages skin cell turnover and supports collagen production, making it one of the most thoroughly studied ingredients for visible signs of aging. It is like a personal trainer for skin cells, encouraging them to function more efficiently.” Dr. Gohara recommends starting slowly, two or three nights a week, and following with moisturizer.

Note that those who are pregnant, breastfeeding, or planning a pregnancy should avoid retinol for safety reasons, cautions Dr. Nazarian.

✔️ Vitamin C: This powerhouse antioxidant can help fade discoloration, including sun spots and post-acne marks, by reducing excess pigment production. “It combats free-radical damage from the environment that ages skin, so it's a non-negotiable for people who spend a lot of time outdoors, and people who pigment easily and have uneven skin tone,” Dr. Nazarian says. Vitamin C serums also help with dullness while supporting collagen and radiance.

✔️ Peptides: “A peptide serum is a great option for someone noticing loss of firmness or fine lines who wants a gentle, gradual approach to supporting the skin,” Dr. Gohara says. “Peptides act like little text messages that signal the skin to perform specific jobs, including supporting collagen and skin repair. Peptides are also a good choice for people who find retinoids too irritating or want to use both ingredients as complementary parts of their routine.” They're often well tolerated by all skin types.

✔️ Hyaluronic acid: “I love hyaluronic acid because it’s a naturally occurring molecule found in our body—in our skin, joints, and even our eyes—and its purpose is to keep the tissues hydrated and moisturized,” Dr. Nazarian says. “For skin, it improves hydration and also improves the barrier, keeping our skin healthy. For anti-aging, hyaluronic acid combats the natural dryness that occurs as we get older. Still, topical hyaluronic acid can also improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.” Sensitive skin and dry skin types do great with this ingredient.

✔️ Niacinamide: Also known as a form of vitamin B3, it’s an impressive multitasker that can help the skin retain moisture, regulate oil, and appear calmer and more even. “Niacinamide can address multiple signs of aging like dark spots and wrinkles, so it is good for a variety of concerns,” Butler says. Niacinamide serums also help with redness, enlarged-looking pores, and a weakened skin barrier.

Plenty of serums are designed to be multitaskers, so look for one that addresses multiple issues. “Many of these ingredients actually work very well together, and can be formulated to remain stabilized and applied within the same product,” Dr. Nazarian says. “This allows for streamlining of the regimen, and ultimately increases compliance because it's easier and simpler. It also often has a better clinical outcome because results are appreciated earlier. Many different aspects of aging are improved simultaneously, and overall general appearance of skin improves in a more noticeable way.”

“Do not shop by the highest percentage, the longest ingredient list, or the biggest promise on the box,” Dr. Gohara says. “More actives can mean more irritation, not more results. Higher is not automatically better. Vitamin C is often effective in the 10% to 20% range, but sensitive skin may prefer a lower concentration or a gentler derivative. Hyaluronic acid does not need to be present at an impressively high percentage to work, and niacinamide is often effective around 2% to 5%. Double-digit niacinamide can be irritating for some people. The best percentage is the one your skin can tolerate consistently.”

Another common mistake is introducing several new products simultaneously. Dr. Gohara recommends adding one at a time so you know what helps and what may cause a reaction.

Apply serum after cleansing and before moisturizer. In the morning, use a vitamin C serum beneath sunscreen because the antioxidant and SPF work together to defend against environmental damage, explains Dr. Gohara. At night, use a retinol serum to support collagen and skin-cell turnover, or a peptide serum for a gentler collagen-supporting option. You can generally use hyaluronic acid and niacinamide in the morning, at night, or both. Start once daily or every other day, then increase as tolerated. Morning is about protecting and preserving; nighttime is about repairing and restoring.

“Keep it simple and go slow,” Dr. Nazarian says. “Start with one product, such as a morning antioxidant serum, and ensure your skin agrees with the ingredients and no irritation is noted. After about two weeks, you can add on a second serum, such as those containing retinoids, in the evening. Most serums for protection and repair only need to be used once a day. Those with hydrating ingredients, like hyaluronic acid, can be applied twice a day if needed.”

Patch test a new serum before applying it to your entire face, especially if you have sensitive skin, rosacea, or eczema. “Mild tingling can happen with some vitamin C products, but persistent burning, itching, swelling, or redness is your cue to stop,” Dr. Gohara says. “Also, do not pile multiple strong actives onto irritated skin. Give the barrier time to recover.”

Patience is key—it takes at least four weeks to see results with anti-aging serums, and often longer, Butler says. “Don’t give up on a serum if you don’t see results right away,” she adds. “Use it for at least one month before you decide if it’s working for you.”