We’re all familiar with the signs of ageing skin, and how to future-proof our routines accordingly. But with so much focus on keeping our complexions smooth and radiant, the signs of ageing hair (beyond the obvious silver strands) can go overlooked.
‘Think of hair like a delicate fabric — the more wear and tear it endures, the faster it frays,’ says dermatologist Dr Mona Gohara. ‘Hair tends to become thinner, grows more slowly, loses pigment and often feels drier or more brittle as we age, due to changes in the hair follicle and scalp environment.’
But time isn’t the only factor at play. So, what else can influence these changes? According to trichologist and hair growth expert Shab Caspara, the biggest culprits are lifestyle and genetics. ‘Stress, diet, medications, environmental exposures and styling habits all influence how hair ages,’ she explains.
While we can control our daily routines, the same can’t be said for genes. ‘If your parents or grandparents experienced thinning or early greying, you can likely expect similar changes to your own hair,’ says hair colourist and stylist Temur Hamilton.
That doesn’t mean healthier-looking hair is out of reach, though. Temur adds, ‘The right lifestyle habits and hair care routine can keep your hair looking younger and healthier for much longer.’
The signs of ageing hair
Greys might be the most obvious indication of ageing hair, but they’re far from the only sign. Ageing doesn’t just affect how your hair looks, but it can also change how it feels.
Dullness and dryness
Wondering where that natural glossiness went? ‘As the scalp produces less sebum with age, especially after menopause, the natural shine and slip caused by sebum and oils coating the strands diminish,’ says US Good Housekeeping Beauty Lab Director Sabina Wizemann. ‘This can result in drier-looking hair and increased coarseness, making hair brittle and more prone to damage, as well as duller in appearance.’
She adds, ‘As the hair shaft ages and melanin decreases, hair can also become more porous and develop a rougher cuticle layer. This doesn’t scatter light as effectively as the smooth surfaces of healthy, aligned cuticles.’
Thinning
Ponytail looking less full? Scalp becoming more visible? These could be tell-tale signs of thinning. ‘Hair thinning often begins when women are in their 40s or 50s, but it can start earlier due to hormonal shifts, especially around menopause,’ says Dr Gohara. As we age, the hair follicles can start to shrink, which results in thinner hair. Certain health conditions and medications can speed up thinning.
Slower growth
Feel like your hair isn’t growing as quickly as it once did? It’s not your imagination. As we age, weakened cellular activity in the follicles and shorter growth cycles mean fewer strands are actively growing at any one time. ‘Reduced blood circulation to the scalp and hormonal decline also contribute,’ Shab adds.
Textural changes.
‘Hair texture changes over time as a result of hormonal shifts, reduced oil production, and accumulated damage,’ Temur says. ‘Curly hair tends to loosen, while straight hair often feels coarser with age.’
How to keep hair looking young
You can’t stop ageing, but you can certainly minimise some of the effects that is has on your hair. Below, the experts share their top tips to meet your hair’s changing needs.
Give yourself a scalp massage
Applying gentle pressure to your scalp can have major perks, particularly if your hair growth has slowed down. ‘Laser devices and scalp massage can counteract this by stimulating circulation,’ Shab tells us.
Update your hair care routine
If hair is feeling dry and stiff, it might be time to rethink your routine. To help restore softness, look for products that are hydrating and don’t forget that regular salon appointments can work wonders, too.
‘While you can’t entirely prevent changes in your hair, you can help preserve the health and texture by using moisturising masks and bond-repair treatments,’ Temur says. Here, the GHI recommends Wella’s Ultimate Repair Miracle Hair Rescue Spray and the K18 Leave-In Molecular Hair Mask.
Make lifestyle tweaks
‘Stress, nutrition, UV exposure, smoking and chemical or heat styling can accelerate how quickly hair changes with age,’ says Dr. Gohara. A healthy, nutrient-rich diet and regular exercise can make a difference.
Switch up your style
We know to rethink our make-up routine as we reach midlife – after all, what works in our 30s isn’t likely to work in the same way in our 50s. According to Dr Gohara, the same can be said for our hair.
‘You should adjust your hairstyle to flatter evolving texture and density,’ she explains. ‘Everyone’s hair is different, so talk with your hairstylist to decide what works best for your hair type.’
Limit exposure to the elements
We all know what prolonged sun exposure can do to our skin, but we don’t always consider the impact it can have on our hair. ‘Keeping your hair and scalp away from environmental stressors (like sunlight) can help slow down visible changes,’ Temur says.
Lay off the hot tools
Temur also recommends avoiding heat styling where possible. ‘For mature hair, you want to focus on moisture, protection and gentle styling,’ he says. ‘When it comes to styling, less is more — work with your natural texture whenever possible and try to avoid too much heat styling.’
When you do style your hair with hot tools, be sure to use a heat protectant.
Pamper your scalp
Healthy hair starts at the scalp, so treat it accordingly. ‘Preventive steps include daily scalp cleansing using scalp-friendly and scalp-nourishing shampoos, as well as consistent use of supplements, scalp topicals and devices such as low-level laser therapy,’ Shab says.
Take extra care for grey hair
More and more women are choosing to embrace their greys. But what does making this transition involve? And, more importantly, how should you care for grey hair once you get there?
According to Temur, if you’ve been colouring greys for years, it’s best to see a pro when you’re considering going silver. ‘Blending is key for smoothly transitioning from coloured to silver hair,’ he says. ‘Highlights, lowlights and a softer, more natural base colour all help ease the grow-out line. It’s important to work with a skilled stylist to transition gradually and gracefully.’
As for keeping those greys in good condition, it’s all about re-looking at your routine. ‘Grey hair is not just a loss of pigment; it also experiences structural and physical changes, including variations in moisture content and strength,’ Sabina says. ‘Conditioning-focused products are recommended, as grey hair may feel and look drier.’
Use a clarifying or purple shampoo once a week to help neutralise unwanted yellow or brassy tones that grey hair can pick up. If you’re not sure where to start, the Amika’s Bust Your Brass Toning scored the best results in the GHI’s purple shampoo tests.
