One of my first grown-up fragrances back in the early 2000s was a teal, teardrop-shaped bottle of Davidoff’s Cool Water. While I’ve long stopped wearing it, a single sniff takes me back to the days of super low-rise jeans, Backstreet Boys CDs and pencil-thin brows. This sensory connection is one of the reasons why vintage fragrances are so special.
Scent is an astonishingly evocative sense, inseparable from our most precious memories, which is what makes perfume so powerful. Smelling a scent that takes us back to good times will instinctively make someone feel ‘intense comfort, happiness, safety and calm’, says fragrance expert and presenter Alice du Parcq.
Fragrance brands might tell us how a how a perfume ‘should’ make us feel, based on AI-driven biometric research that maps broad psychological responses to different perfumes. However, individual memory trumps all. As neuroscenting expert and VEXA Beauty founder Sabah Karimi puts it: ‘Universal scent psychology sets the stage, but autobiographical memory turns the volume up or down.’
It’s also worth noting that so-called ‘granny fragrances’ are currently enjoying a resurgence in an era of safe, smell-alike launches. Just as many ‘vintage’ baby names have made a fashionable comeback, younger customers are reclaiming vintage perfumes for their own, distinctive signature. So what once smelled ‘old’ becomes fresh and modern all over again.
Vintage perfumes also have a level of richness and complexity that offers a sophistication that’s sometimes missing in modern scents. To indulge in a bit of scent nostalgia, here are the best vintage fragrances that deserve a place in your scent wardrobe today.
Guerlain Shalimar (1925)
Launched in 1925, the original Shalimar was a sultry blend of bergamot, iris and smoky vanilla. The classic fragrance, which comes in a recognisable Art Deco bottle, was said to be inspired by Emperor Shah Jahan and his beloved Mumtaz Mahal (the same love story behind the construction of the Taj Mahal). There have been several re-releases of the perfume over the years, and users are still enthralled by its rich, sophisticated scent.
Guerlain Shalimar
Chanel No. 19 (1970)
While everyone talks about No. 5, Chanel No. 19 is a unique, woody scent that has stood the test of time. The fragrance pays homage to Coco Chanel’s birthday (19 August) and is described as sharp and earthy. The perfume has base notes of oak moss, leather and sandalwood.
YSL Opium (1977)
When it debuted in the 1970s, YSL’s Opium caused a scandal with its name and provocative advertising. The scent itself was an intoxicating mix of cloves, pepper, bergamot and patchouli. The long-lasting perfume was immediately a bestseller and today’s versions of the fragrance continue to be popular.
Yves Saint Laurent Opium Eau de Toilette
Dior Poison (1985)
Dior’s Poison was launched in 1985, and it wasn’t a fragrance for the faint of heart; it was a loud, spicy scent that demanded attention. The perfume blended coriander, wild berries and tuberose, and it was famously banned from some restaurants because it was so intense.
Thierry Mugler Angel (1992)
Angel was a subtle, sweet scent that quickly rose to popularity in the early 90s. It combined top notes of coconut and jasmine with base notes of chocolate, caramel and vanilla. The perfume was popular because it pioneered the ‘gourmand’ fragrance category, which features scents designed to smell edible.
CK One (1994)
This fragrance changed the game by being the first widely successful unisex scent. In contrast to the heavy, dramatic perfumes of previous eras, CK One was clean, citrussy and minimalist. The perfume featured notes of lemon, jasmine and sandalwood.
The Body Shop Dewberry (1988)
To prove the power of scent nostalgia, The Body Shop has just brought back its most-requested product ever: Dewberry. Customers have been demanding its return ever since it was discontinued 24 years ago, pining for its evocative blend of dewberry, green leaves, eucalyptus, jasmine and musk. While the perfume oil has been updated to meet modern regulations, the brand’s global CMO, Victor Sabbe, says, ‘The scent profile has been perfectly replicated with the same olfactive notes.’ The collective gasp of ‘that takes me back’ in the GH office confirms it’s done exactly that.
