Let’s be honest, our hair has a way of changing as we do, and our go-to cuts don’t always keep up. There’s nothing more disheartening than going to the salon expecting a full, swishy bob, only to discover it’s fallen flat before you’ve even had a chance to show it off.
As hair starts to feel finer or appear a little thinner with age, finding the right cut becomes less of a luxury and more of a must. The good news is a clever cut can work wonders: helping hair hold body, bounce and movement in all the right places, while steering clear of that dreaded “see-through” effect at the roots.
To help you get it right, we spoke to expert stylist and Fudge Professional global ambassador Jonathan Andrew, who shares his go-to cuts for fine or thinning hair, plus the common mistakes to avoid so you can achieve hair that looks beautifully full of life, and no scalp show-through.
“When I’m working with fine or thinning hair, the key is creating what I call invisible volume. It’s not about piling in loads of product; it starts with the haircut,” says Jonathan. “One of my favourite cutting techniques is invisible layering. That’s where I cut shorter pieces through the top and blend them seamlessly into the length, so they don’t look choppy or obvious.”
Celebs like Keira Knightley, Cate Blanchett, Naomi Watts, Gabby Logan and Alex Jones perfectly embody this look, showing invisible how layers can elevate their appearance in an effortless way.
With this approach, even air drying can work in your favour. Those seamless layers just melt into each other, taking weight off the ends and raising the root to give you that effortless lift. “You instantly get more height and movement through the crown without it looking over-layered,” Jonathan explains.
Soft graduation is another brilliant trick, especially in a bob. By building a little width into the shape, the hair naturally sits away from the scalp, creating the illusion of density. The result is hair that appears fuller and thicker, without the need for anything too drastic that could easily backfire.
Of course, if you are ready for more of a change, going shorter can make all the difference. ‘A textured pixie or a shorter, layered shape makes it much easier to encourage volume through the top because there’s simply less weight pulling the hair down,’ Jonathan explains.
Whatever length you land on, 'the shape of the hairstyle is key,' says Jonathan. 'If a style sits too close to the scalp, it can fall flat and reveal more of the root than you’d like, making hair look thinner than it actually is. The goal is to find a shape that lifts away from the head and gives that easy, airy fullness.'
Styling has its part to play here, too. ‘With thinning hair, I always avoid heavy, oil-based products as they can separate the strands and make thinning more noticeable,’ says Jonathan. Instead, it’s all about building volume from the base.
‘I reach for a volumising mousse like Fudge Professional Xpander Foam, applying it from root to tip with a comb to distribute it evenly.’ It’s a backstage staple he swears by for creating that fuller foundation. A lightweight salt spray, like the Fudge Professional Salt Spray, is a brilliant way to add easy texture without dragging the hair down, and even better, it’ll currently only set you back around £10.
When it comes to drying, a little technique goes a long way. ‘Rough-dry first with your head upright, using your hands to lift the hair up and away from the scalp. Shift it away from its natural fall , dry it slightly forward or back to build bounce, then finish with a brush to refine the shape,’ he advises. To lock it all in place, he namechecks the Fudge Skyscraper hairspray as a personal favourite, perfect for holding volume while keeping the hair soft and touchable.
Ultimately, to give finer hair a new lease of life it’s this blend of a well-judged cut and clever, lightweight styling that makes all the difference. As Jonathan puts it, ‘That combination is what creates truly invisible volume.’
