Grey hair can look beautiful when it’s well cared for, but it takes work. Natural texture changes and once-dependable styling techniques fall flat – literally. However, many of us don’t realise that we’re working against the new hand we’ve been dealt and are unwittingly making our silver hair look unnecessarily drab by sticking to an outdated regime. Happily, a change of tack is all that’s needed and will quickly make all the difference to grey hair.
That’s the advice given by celebrity hairdresser and salon founder Larry King, whose hair CV includes the likes of Cheryl Cole and Robin Wright. ‘What most people with grey hair are dealing with is dehydration, frizz and a roughened cuticle,’ he explains. ‘As hair loses melanin, it also tends to lose softness and elasticity, so the texture changes naturally, it can feel wirier, more porous and harder to control.
‘That’s why grey hair suddenly reacts differently to humidity, heat styling and even brushing. I hear it constantly in the salon: “My hair used to behave and now it feels frizzy.”’
A massive problem Larry sees is people trying to compensate for rough, dry texture by over-using straighteners, which really doesn’t suit grey hair. In fact, it makes the underlying problem worse.
‘Poker-straight styling is a big mistake,’ says Larry. ‘Sometimes, people flatten grey hair so much, trying to make it look sleek, that it actually ends up looking thinner and more brittle.’
Rather than attempting a quick fix that causes more problems than it solves, Larry advises going back to the drawing board and considering what your hair really needs at this stage.
Rethink what your hair is doing right now
Dryness plus grey hair is the big underlying problem, says Larry. ‘The issue is that dryness on grey hair catches the light in a way that can make hair look dull and ageing, rather than glossy and expensive. When people say they want texture, what they usually actually want is movement, softness and separation, not frizz.’
Knowing that is the foundation of healthy-looking greys. ‘Ideal texture on grey hair should look polished but effortless,’ says Larry. ‘Think airy, healthy, touchable hair with shine and definition. You want hair to move naturally, not puff out. It should feel hydrated and modern, not stiff or overworked.
Give your wash routine an upgrade
It all starts in the shower, according to Larry. ‘Grey hair benefits massively from moisture-focused care, because the hair fibre simply isn’t retaining hydration in the same way any more,’ he says. ‘A big mistake is over-cleansing with harsh shampoos, which strip the hair further and leave it fluffy before you’ve even started styling.’
Larry recommends investing in a gentle shampoo, such as the Larry King Good Life shampoo. He also recommends avoiding very hot water (sorry!).
‘Always condition properly through the mid-lengths and ends,’ he adds. ‘Weekly masks are brilliant, especially if your hair feels coarse or straw-like.’
And your post-shower routine is just as important. ‘I also always tell clients not to aggressively towel-dry their hair — that roughens the cuticle instantly and creates halo frizz. Pat and squeeze instead.’
Keep an eye on the heat
‘Heat-styling technique matters more than people realise,’ says Larry. ‘The reason tools like the Dyson Airwrap or Supersonic work so beautifully on grey hair is because they smooth while styling, rather than blasting the hair into submission. Grey hair responds much better to controlled airflow and lower heat than it does to really aggressive tonging or straightening.’
When it comes to mature hair, soft, bouncier styles are always a good option, according to Larry. While very straight hair can fall flat and even make hair appear thinner, he says a softer bend or added movement is far more flattering.
Invest in less
According to Larry, less is more when it comes to hair products – invest in fewer, better formulas. ‘You don’t want heavy oils flattening the hair, but you do need something that gives polish and separation. A texture spray should never make grey hair feel gritty or dry. That’s exactly why I love my Larry King Ride or Die Texture Spray – it gives that expensive, airy lived-in texture without making the hair feel chalky. You get movement and body, but the hair still feels healthy and touchable,’ he says.
Larry King Ride or Die Texture Spray
Give your hair some freedom
‘Styling-wise, one of the biggest mistakes I see is people overworking the hair trying to “control” it,’ says Larry. ‘Too much backcombing, too much dry shampoo, too much matte texture spray – all of that exaggerates dryness on grey hair instantly.’ Work with your hair, not against it.
Don’t skip the salon
Not only is the salon a good bit of me-time, but a strategic haircut can make all the difference. ‘Grey hair needs shape,’ says Larry. ‘If the cut is too heavy or blunt, the texture can sit awkwardly and look dense or triangular. Internal layering and softer edges help create movement while removing bulk where the hair naturally expands.’
He adds, ‘I always think the best grey hair looks intentional, healthy, glossy, soft and modern. Not “perfect”, not shellacked, just beautifully cared for with the right amount of undone texture.’
