The humble hairdryer is something we often don’t treat with as much respect or caution as we do other styling tools. Compared with things such as tongs and irons, it’s seen as rather benign in terms of its heat damage potential. However, using it incorrectly can lead you to unwittingly damage your hair, especially if yours is thin and mature.
That’s the expert view from Cos Sakkas, three-times British Hairdresser of the Year and TONI&GUY global creative director. He’s kindly given us a blow-by-blow account of the incredibly common hairdryer habit he sees wreaking havoc, often without women realising.
But before we get to that, let’s start with the good news. Using a hairdryer itself isn’t inherently bad for your hair. In fact, it’s often better than just leaving hair to air dry, because wet hair is hair at its most fragile.
‘Correct blow-drying does not damage the hair,’ confirms Cos.
So, how am I damaging my hair when I blow-dry?
Not quitting when you’re ahead. ‘The key thing is to stop when your hair is dry,’ says Cos. ‘It’s the hairdryer on already-dried hair that does the damage!
‘Continuing to blow-dry hair once it’s dry is such a common mistake people make,’ adds Cos. ‘There’s a fine line between hair being dry and too dry, and most people don’t realise they’re doing it. Hair should be 70% naturally dry before you start blow-drying your hair into shape and should be rough dried first to remove the excess moisture. Then the actual blow-dry shouldn’t take as long as you think. Always start on the underneath sections, and do the top section at the end.’
Why is overdrying hair so damaging?
‘Once your hair is dry, the moisture has been removed, so every extra minute under the dryer is damaging the hair,’ warns Cos. ‘The cuticle, which is the protective outer layer of each hair strand, starts to lose the natural elasticity that keeps hair looking healthy and feeling strong. Overdrying the hair can leave it brittle, dull and prone to breakage.’
Is overdrying especially harmful if you have ageing hair?
It is indeed, says Cos. ‘As we age, our hair becomes less dense, naturally drier and is less resilient to trauma and damage. Those with finer or fragile hair will notice the damage quicker, with more breakage, flyaways and less shine.’
‘Grey hair is also more susceptible to damage from overdrying as it’s naturally more porous than pigmented hair,’ he adds. ‘Overdrying can leave grey looking wiry, coarse or frizzy rather than polished. Whatever hair type, you must always use a heat protectant, such as LABEL.M Fashion Edition Heat Protection Mist, to protect the hair whenever using heated tools.’
LABEL.M Fashion Edition Heat Protection Mist
Could overdrying impact hair growth?
Potentially. Overdrying can be harmful to scalp health and, of course, a healthy scalp provides the ‘soil’ for optimal hair growth. If your hair is already fine, overdrying is especially bad news. ‘The less hair on the head, the less a physical barrier there is between heat and the scalp,’ says Cos. ‘Exposure to heat can leave the scalp feeling dehydrated, inflamed and sensitive. Like your skin, the scalp needs protecting and cared for to avoid unnecessary heat stress. Always keep the dryer moving and keep the nozzle at least 15cm away from the scalp.'
How can I tell if my hair is dry enough?
Go by feel, advises Cos. ‘Run your fingers through each section and feel for any cool patches or dampness, especially underneath the hair. Damp hair will feel heavier, while dry hair moves more naturally.’
So keep checking how your hair feels as you dry, and be ready to switch off the dryer as soon as the job is done.
How can I tell if I’ve already dried my hair out?
‘When hair is dry and damaged, it tends to feel rough or straw-like to the touch and look dull rather than glossy,’ says Cos. He notes that telltale signs include increased frizz, split ends and strands that snap or tangle easy.
How can I restore dry, damaged hair?
Follow the ‘five Cs rule’ to help restore your hair, says Cos:
Cleanse
Start from the beginning with a good cleanse. ‘Hot water water will dry out your hair and scalp and lead to hair becoming frizzy and drier,’ warns Cos. ‘Instead, wash with lukewarm water and finish on a cold-water rinse to seal the cuticles and keep hair shiny and hydrated.’
His top shampoo recommendation is LABEL.M’s Diamond Dust Shampoo. ‘It has real microfine diamonds to boost natural movement and create weightless body while protecting against thermal damage. It also includes linseed extract, which will leave hair stronger and smoother.’
LABEL.M .m Diamond Dust Nourishing Shampoo
Condition
As Cos puts it simply, ‘Never skip conditioner.’ He explains, ‘It has a positive charge that reduces static and friction in negatively charged hair, so there’s less chance of breakage when you brush and style it. It also helps to protect the hair cuticle from environmental damage by strengthening, nourishing and smoothing it. ’
He recommends pairing the LABEL.M shampoo with its sister product, the Diamond Dust Conditioner.
LABEL.M Diamond Dust Nourishing Conditioner
Care
Haircare needs to extend beyond the shower for healthy tresses. ‘Revive dry and damaged hair with a weekly deep conditioning mask or leave-in conditioner to help reduce breakage, smooth frizz and enhance elasticity for soft, resilient strands,’ says Cos.
Cos tells us the LABEL.M Diamond Dust Nourishing Leave-In Conditioner is brilliant for this. Apply to towel-dried hair and brush through with a wide-tooth comb to minimise static and frizz.
Create a barrier
When it comes to styling, protective products are your best friend. ‘Always use a heat protective spray before blow-drying, especially on the ends, which may be drier and more brittle than the scalp,’ says Cos.
He notes that while oils and serums can provide some protection, a dedicated protectant spray or cream is essential for safeguarding your locks.
‘Make sure this is your last styling step before blow-drying,’ he says. ‘This ensures the product will make direct contact with the heat and fully activates.’
He adds, ‘As well as not overdrying your hair, avoid styling your hair with heated tools at too high a temperature and never use heated tools directly on damp or wet hair – this can weaken the hair structure.’
Complete the look
Make a good hair day even better with a finish touch. ‘To create soft, touchable hair, finish with a good hairspray to lock in the style for a polished result,’ says Cos. ‘The LABEL.M Fashion Edition Ultimate Hairspray not only gives long-lasting hold, but also contains pro-vitamin B5 to provide additional strength to the hair.’
For longer-term results, Cos suggests making a trip to your local salon. ‘TONI&GUY’s new hair therapy prescriptive treatment is brilliant. The Bond Repair Therapy nourishes and strengthens for a softer, smoother feel and greater manageability.’
