Grey hair has become a legitimate colour choice in its own right, but let’s not pretend it doesn’t have its challenges. While silver hair can look ageless and chic – see the likes of Helen Mirren and Andie MacDowell as proof – it’s also prone to issues like dryness, fragility, dullness and discoloration. So how can we keep silver looking polished?
One key strategy is to identify the reasons your grey hair may not be as gleamy and fresh as you’d like. Some, such as chemical or heat damage, are obvious, but as hairdresser and colour expert Edward James explains, there are also many surprising reasons why your greys might appear drab. The wrong products and even the wrong haircut can add up to hair that looks dull and damaged.
‘People often don’t realise why they’re struggling with grey hair, but knowing the problem and making the necessary adjustments can make a huge difference,’ says leading London salons founder Edward, whose clients include royalty and A-listers such as Joanna Lumley.
Here are the trouble spots to look out for with grey hair.
Where you live
If you live in a hard water area, it’ll be discolouring your grey hair, says Edward. ‘Grey hair is naturally more porous than pigmented hair, so it readily absorbs minerals such as copper, iron and calcium from hard water, leaving grey hair looking dull, yellowed and rough.’
It’s relatively simple to tackle. ‘One of the easiest ways to tackle this is by using a shower filter,’ says Edward. Find the top-rated GHI shower filters here. ‘Or you can incorporate a detox treatment into your routine. L’Oréal Metal Detox Shampoo is particularly effective because it helps remove metal particles and mineral build-up that can dull grey and silver tones, so ideally use it once a week to prevent build-up over time.’
L'Oréal Professionnel Metal Detox Shampoo
Your hairspray
You might rely on it to hold your style in place, but hairspray can be an enemy of shiny, grey hair. ‘As we age, the scalp produces less natural oil that helps lubricate and protect the hair fibre, which leaves hair more brittle and less flexible than it once was,’ says Edward. ‘Traditional alcohol-heavy hairsprays can make this worse by further dehydrating the hair and reducing shine.’
However, it doesn’t come down to a straight choice between structure and shine – you can have both, assured Edward. ‘Opt for a softer, more flexible hairspray that allows movement while maintaining hydration. Aveda Air Control is a great example, providing lightweight hold without leaving grey hair stiff or looking dry.’
Aveda Air Control Light Hold Hair Spray
Skipping a ‘top coat’
You need to remember that grey hair doesn’t just lose colour, it loses reflection, too, says Edward. ‘Hair often develops a rougher cuticle surface, which scatters light rather than reflecting it and this can make grey hair appear matte instead of glossy.’ Problem is, many of us don’t think to use the one type of product that can remedy that immediately: the glossy hair ‘top coat’.
‘One of the most effective ways to restore shine is with a clear glossing treatment,’ says Edward, explaining that this sort of product isn’t just for the salon. ‘These treatments work by using an acidic pH to smooth and seal the cuticle, creating a flatter surface that reflects light more effectively and makes grey hair look brighter, healthier and more reflective.’ Living Proof’s is a GH beauty team favourite.
Your haircut
This is probably something you’ve never considered, but ‘the wrong choice of haircut can make grey hair look dull,’ says Edward. ‘Split, wispy or heavily-textured ends absorb light rather than reflect it, making grey hair appear rougher and less healthy. Also, excessive use of texturising scissors can also leave the ends looking frayed and broken, particularly on textured or curly hair.’
So what should you ask for at the salon? ‘A cleaner shape with stronger perimeters often reflects more light and creates the appearance of healthier, glossier hair,’ says Edward. ‘Sometimes this makes a bigger difference than any treatment or styling product.
Sun cream
We are huge, huge advocates for daily SPF at GH, but that’s for its benefits to your skin, not your hair! ‘One of the most overlooked causes of yellowing in grey hair is sunscreen,’ says Edward. ‘The ingredient avobenzone, which is commonly found in chemical sunscreens, can react with minerals in water, sweat and environmental pollutants. This can create yellow or peachy discolouration on grey hair.’
‘If you spend a lot of time outdoors, wearing a hat or rinsing the hair after sun exposure can help minimise staining. Or choose a sunscreen that doesn’t contain avobenzone.’ Mineral SPF formulas can be beneficial here.
Purple shampoo
Here, you really can get too much of a good thing. ‘Purple shampoo can be brilliant for neutralising yellow tones on grey hair. However, overuse can leave grey hair looking flat, smokey or even slightly lavender, particularly if the hair is porous,’ says Edward.
So remember, less is more. ‘Bright, healthy silver hair is usually achieved through balance rather than maximum pigment. For best results, use purple shampoo sparingly, typically once a week, and adjust the frequency depending on how your hair responds. If your hair is particularly porous, mix it in with your normal shampoo to dilute it.’
His high-end favourite is Shu Uemura Yūbi Blonde Anti-Brass Purple Shampoo (‘It neutralises warmth beautifully but still leaves the hair supple and luminous’) while Matrix Total Results So Silver Shampoo gets his nod for ‘reliable toning without the salon price tag’.
Shu Uemura Art of Hair Yubi Blonde Anti-Brass Purple Shampoo
Heat damage
Okay, this one won’t be a shock but it is worth knowing your hair is exceptionally vulnerable. ‘Heat damage really does show up more on grey hair,’ confirms Edward. ‘Grey hair often contains less moisture and elasticity because the ageing process affects the hair’s protein structure and natural lipid content. As a result, it becomes less resilient to heat styling and more prone to roughness, dryness and breakage.’
So take extra care to avoid heat dulling your hair. ‘Alongside a good heat protector, regular deep-conditioning treatments can help restore flexibility,’ he says. ‘I love Philip Kingsley Elasticizer as it is particularly good at replenishing moisture and improves elasticity, helping hair bend rather than snap.’
