If you’re a woman of a certain age, you might have noticed your eyelids becoming less receptive to makeup. Eyeliner seems to vanish when you open your eyes, mascara is lost to folds of skin and that carefully-applied wash of eyeshadow disappears under the hood.
It can feel frustrating, but it doesn’t mean your makeup stops being flattering or fun when you develop hooded eyes. All it takes is a little adaptation to your changing eye shape, says makeup artist Aimee Connolly, founder of Sculpted By Aimee.
She’s outlined the small adjustments that make a big difference and will ensure your eye makeup still shows up for duty. And no, they don’t involve complicated beauty gymnastics with six brushes and a ring light – we’ll leave that one to the TikTok teens and their gravity-proof lids.
Where exactly should eyeshadow be placed for the most flattering effect?
Start by looking the issue direct in the eye, says Aimee. ‘Look straight into your mirror and see where your eyelid sits when the eye is open. Use a fluffy brush and add a light blend of eyeshadow into the socket, across the crease. This groove will be your guide.’
Don’t be tempted to shut your eyes when you apply eyeshadow – it’s how you literally lose sight of what works on a hooded eye. ‘Look back into the mirror as you normally would,’ says Aimee. ‘Follow the blend and build up your eyeshadow from here. Blend it just above the natural crease and extend it out slightly, this will give you a more open eye shape.’
Which eyeshadow formulas work best for hooded lids?
Hooded eyes tend to crease more, Aimee notes. ‘I would work with matte shadows that don’t tend to crease or overlap. Keep matte textures higher on the lid. If you’re using creams or shimmer, keep them tighter to the lower lid and lash line. Adding shimmer or lighter shadows to the inner corner or centre of the eyelid will help open that area up also.’
How can I prevent creasing and smudging throughout the day?
Apply a thin layer of concealer to the eye area before using eyeshadow. ‘Set it lightly with your translucent powder or a skin-tone-like eyeshadow,’ Aimee advises. ‘This will prevent transfer on to the hood, and it’ll also help you blend your shadows more easily, too. Once you have a set base, incorporate more matte textures that have better longevity.’
Can eyeliner work on hooded eyes?
Yes, absolutely, but you do need to adjust the technique slightly. ‘Do a thin line along the lash line,’ says Aimee. ‘Avoid thickness here, as it’ll just take over the whole eyelid space. If you’re looking to create a wing or small flick, always keep the thickness to the outer corner only.’
Again, look straight in the mirror as you apply. ‘Mark where you want the flick to end, as this will help you to see how it would look when finished. You can then build your flick out to this point. Remember to keep the line thin across the lashes, and don’t forget to add definition to the lower lash line to create full impact.’
Whatever you, don’t close your eyes and/or attempt to stretch your skin as you apply eyeliner. It might look great when it’s pulled taut, but your liner will be a different shape when you let go!
Do false lashes suit hooded eyes?
If false lashes are your thing, go for it – they can really open a hooded, mature eye. ‘I’d recommend individual lashes and focus them to the outer corner of the eye. This will help the eye to appear bigger and it’ll give a more lifted effect,’ says Aimee. Not a fan of a falsie? ‘There’s also a superpower in a great coat of mascara,’ she says.
What’s the most common makeup mistake people make with hooded eyes?
‘A big mistake people make is creating a gorgeous look on their eyelid but then, when they open their eyes, it disappears – or rather you can’t see it within the creased skin,’ says Aimee. ‘Ensure to build your look above the crease to avoid losing the look completely. And remember to keep your smokiness around the lashline for instant impact.’
