It’s no secret that our brows change as we age. After 50, hormonal shifts can leave brows looking sparser, less defined and lacking structure. Thankfully, according to the experts, fuller-looking brows are absolutely achievable – even if you’re a victim of over-plucking. It’s all about techniques that focus on nourishment, precision and enhancing what you have.
Putting the work into your brows is important and can balance your entire face, according to top makeup artist and founder Ruby Hammer. ‘Think of it this way: brows are the frame for your face,’ she says. ‘You wouldn’t put a Picasso in a cheap IKEA frame, would you? The frame is just as important as the artwork.’
With so many brow products and salon treatments available, it can be tricky to know what will work best, especially on a midlife face. So, we spoke to Ruby, as well as eyebrow expert Shavata Singh, to get their expert advice.
What’s the best way to grow thicker brows as we age?
Before makeup comes maintenance. According to Shavata, fuller-looking brows start with looking after what you already have. ‘Consistent care is key,’ she tells GH.
‘It’s important to avoid over-plucking and to maintain a natural brow shape that complements your face,’ she says, warning that excessive tweezing can lead to permanently sparse brows. ‘Focus instead on gentle grooming and trimming; this will help preserve fullness over time.’
She also notes that regular conditioning treatments can help nourish and strengthen the brow hair. For a natural option, she recommends applying organic castor oil (a beauty hack that is also well loved by the likes of Helen Mirren).
Shavata Singh Brow & Lash Strengthener
Then there are brow serums, which have soared in popularity in recent years. ‘Brow serums can be very effective when used consistently,’ she says. ‘Look for ingredients such as peptides, biotin, panthenol and botanical extracts, which help strengthen hair, support growth and improve overall brow health.’ For a trusted, high-quality buy, Shavata recommends RevitaBrow serum.
RevitaBrow Advanced Eyebrow Serum
RevitaBrow Advanced Eyebrow Serum
Which salon treatments create fuller-looking brows?
Beyond at-home care, there are myriad salon treatments that can help create fuller-looking, more youthful brows. ‘Brow tinting and lamination are excellent choices,’ Shavata says. ‘Tinting enhances the colour of existing hairs, making brows appear thicker, meanwhile lamination smooths and lifts the hairs into place, creating a fuller, more structured look.’
‘Microblading is also great,’ she adds. ‘When it’s done well, it should be virtually undetectable, you shouldn’t be able to tell the difference between a natural hair and a hair stroke.’
How can makeup make brows look thicker over 50?
The trick here is to create ‘soft, believable volume,’ says Ruby. Though mature women are often advised to use cream-based products, she says the opposite is true for brows. ‘For mature skin, brow powders are my top choice,’ she reveals. ‘Heavy, waxy brow pomades can look incredibly flat and harsh, often grabbing on to dry patches or settling into fine lines around the brow bone, whereas powder sits beautifully on the skin without dragging, pulling or looking severe.’
Ruby reveals she teams up powder with a clear brow gel for lasting results. ‘A brilliant trick when using powder is to apply it after your clear brow gel, rather than before,’ she says. ‘Brush your brow hairs up and into place with your clear gel first, and let it dry just until it’s slightly tacky. Then, take your angled brush and lightly press your brow powder into the sparse areas. The powder adheres to the gel on the hairs, giving the illusion of significantly thicker, more textured individual strands, rather than just colouring the skin underneath.’
How can you use makeup without brows looking drawn-on?
One of the biggest brow mistakes Ruby sees on 50-plus women is brows that are overdrawn. ‘It’s all in the application,’ she says. A good makeup brush is essential for mimicking natural brow strokes, she explains, recommending the angled brush in her 3-in-1 Magnetic Makeup brush set.
Ruby Hammer 3-in-1 Magnetic Makeup brush set 01
‘Instead of painting a continuous, solid block of colour, use a very light hand to flick the brush upwards in short, feathery strokes, always following the direction of your natural hair growth,’
She adds, ‘The most crucial step: always, always blend out your work with a clean spoolie. Combing through the brows diffuses the powder, melting it into your skin so it looks like a real shadow rather than visible makeup.’
Ruby Hammer Magnetic Brush Set 02
Ruby also advises keeping close to your natural brow shape for the best, natural-looking results. ‘I often see women extending the tail of the brow too far down. This instantly drags the eye downwards, making you look tired and older,’ she warns.
‘To lengthen the brow without dragging the face down, flick the hairs upwards rather than downwards at the ends. Your brow tail should never end lower than where the front of your brow begins. If you look at theatrical makeup, brows aren’t just expressive… they’re literally adapted to add years to a face, or take them away.’
What’s the best way to choose the right brow shade as we age?
Choosing the right shade of powder is key, too. ‘As a general rule, we want to soften our features as we age, not sharpen them,’ says Ruby.
‘If you have dark hair, go one or two shades lighter than your hair colour. If you have blonde or silver hair, go a shade darker to gently frame the face,’ she advises.
Ruby says to pay close attention to undertones, too. ‘Often, women over 50 find that their brows look drawn-on simply because the powder is too warm or red. Ashy, cool-toned taupes (those shades that look like absolutely nothing in the pan) and soft greys look completely natural. Anastasia Beverly Hills excels at offering these perfect, cooler undertones.’
Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Powder Duo
You might be surprised at just how many years a well-groomed brow can take off your face.
