As a legendary makeup artist who’s worked with everyone from Helen Mirren to Sharon Stone and Kate Moss, Ruby Hammer is used to being quizzed for her beauty expertise. From making foundation ageless to decoding bronzer on mature skin, she’s been asked every makeup question imaginable, but there’s one issue that comes up more than any other.
‘In my decades as a makeup artist, I have consistently been asked the same question: “How do I apply eyeliner to hooded eyes?”’ Ruby tells GH.
It’s an understandable query. Our eye shape can dramatically change over time, leading to sagging skin, crepey lids and, in some cases, loss of a visible crease line. Suddenly, eye makeup techniques and products we’ve relied on for years no longer work – and eyeliner is first in the firing line
However, Ruby is a passionate advocate for keeping eyeliner front and centre in a mature makeup regime, no matter how hooded eyes become. ‘The secret to defining a hooded eye isn't a steadier hand or abandoning eyeliner altogether,’ she says. ‘It’s all about strategic placement and employing clever optical illusions that work with your eye shape, not against it.’
Here are the three easy techniques Ruby swears by for creating eye-opening definition on hooded eyes with eyeliner.
The 'Batwing' Technique
When you want a crisp yet ageless liquid wing, the batwing is your secret weapon. ‘It's brilliant, universally flattering, and completely eliminates that dreaded crooked-wing or smudged effect,’ says Ruby.
Here's how. ‘First, instead of stretching the eye shut or pulling the delicate skin taut, map the shape while looking straight ahead into a mirror,’ she explains. ‘Keep your eyes wide open and your face relaxed.’
Using a fine-tipped liner, like Ruby's Precision Liner, start by drawing the outer flick, angling upward toward the tail of the brow. ‘The magic happens when you connect that tip back toward the lash line,’ says Ruby. ‘Instead of attempting to curve underneath the hood, draw a straight, horizontal line directly across the resting fold of skin.’
‘When you look down or close your eye, you will see a distinct, stepped notch where the liner crossed the fold,’ she says. ‘This resembles a bat’s wing. Yet the moment you open your eye and look forward, that step folds seamlessly into your crease, transforming into a perfect wing.’ Genius.
Ruby Hammer Precision Eyeliner
The Soft Wing
If you prefer a more diffused finish than liquid liner, a soft wing is for you, says Ruby. ‘This technique relies on texture rather than graphic lines, making it exceptionally forgiving.’
As with the first method, keep your eyes open. ‘Using a small, dense angled brush and a rich, pigmented eyeshadow to gently stamp a soft flick at the outer corner of the eye,’ she says, advising deep espresso, charcoal or navy as shades that really flatter a mature eye.
‘Still working with the eyes open, softly drag the shadow outward and slightly upward toward the tail of the brow,’ she says. ‘Blend the top edge so it looks smokey rather than severe. Because eyeshadow glides over folds of skin without gaps or accentuating texture, it delivers that coveted lifted, feline elongation while remaining incredibly elegant and soft on the features.’
The Tightline
Another really great option is to apply liner within the upper lashline itself, not on top of it. ‘For hooded eyes, you want to protect and preserve your visible lid space,’ explains Ruby. ‘When you draw a thick, heavy band of black eyeliner across your upper eyelid, it consumes whatever precious space you have, visually shrinking the eye and making the lid look heavy.’
Luckily, the answer is easy, even if you have a wobbly hand. ‘To achieve rich, sultry definition without sacrificing a single millimeter of eyelid real estate, you must master the tightline,’ she says.
‘Takie a waterproof, long-wear gel pencil – a rich brown, aubergine or classic black works beautifully – and gently lift the upper lashes from underneath. Press the pigment directly into the upper waterline and wiggle it right into the roots of the lashes to fill in the gaps between the hairs. This creates the illusion of a thick, luscious lash line, while leaving your actual eyelid completely bare, open, and bright.’
..And how to make it last
When you’re using liner on hooded eyes, you need to take extra steps for staying power. ‘Because the skin of a hood naturally rests directly on top of the lash line, your natural skin oils will break down and transfer even the best makeup within hours if the area isn't sealed,’ says Ruby.
‘Whether creating a dramatic batwing or a diffused shadow flick, always prime the eyelid with a dedicated gripping eye primer or a long-wear matte cream shadow to lock in the look all day.’
