Collagen supplementation is one of the most widely debated topics in skincare, with opinions varying about the effectiveness for skin rejuvenation. Now a new, large-scale review has concluded that there is evidence to back up their anti-ageing claims, which is reassuring news for the millions who take them daily in the hope of boosting collagen levels and improving their skin.
However, anti-ageing skin specialist Dr Sophie Shotter has weighed in on the findings, and cautions people against one very common mistake that prevents their collagen supplements working as well as they could.
The good news, according to a new scientific review of 113 collagen trials, is that there’s ‘promising’ evidence for using collagen to improve skin elasticity and hydration (although less for ‘resolving textural surface features’ – or reducing wrinkles, to put it in plain English.)
As you’d expect, the researchers found that these ‘credible benefits’ required consistency and time. But what the research doesn’t mention is that building strong, fresh collagen – the key structural protein needed for firm, supple skin – isn’t something that happens in isolation.
‘Your collagen supplement will never work without getting sufficient vitamin C,’ says Dr Shotter. ‘It’s a crucial co-factor for collagen production. You need vitamin C to activate various enzymes that help to strengthen collagen fibres. So if you haven’t got enough vitamin C, you’re not going to build robust collagen.’
Think of it this way, she says – collagen without vitamin C is like having bricks but no skilled workers to build them.
‘Lots of people make that mistake,’ Dr Shotter adds. ‘Not all collagen supplements have vitamin C in them, which shouldn’t be a problem if you get a good amount of vitamin C in addition. But many people don’t.’
Top-rated GHI Approved collagen supplements with vitamin C include Freesoul Marine Liquid Collagen and Ingenious Beauty Ultimate Collagen.
Another collagen supplement that includes vitamin C is Wild Nutrition’s Collagen 500 Plus blend. We’ve tested a range of Wild Nutrition supplements at the Good Housekeeping Institute, including its Magnesium capsules and Menopause Complex, which have both been rated highly for usability and performance with our panel. But if you’re looking to firm up your skin and reduce the appearance of lines, you'll want the brand’s Collagen 500 Plus. There's 3000mg of marine collagen in each serving, alongside a dose of vitamin C to supercharge the benefits, plus vitamin E and biotin. When taken consistently, these ingredients are proven to help firm and smooth skin, as well as boosting hair health.
Wild Nutrition Collagen 500 Plus
Wild Nutrition's capsules are also formulated with ultra small collagen protein molecules for rapid and effective absorption into the blood stream – simply add a scoop a day to hot or cold drinks. The brand makes it easy to stay consistent too, as you can get the supplements on subscription and the brand is currently offering 50% off for the first three months and then 20% off thereafter using the code HABIT50.
‘I always say to people that looking at supplementing 1,000mg of vitamin C a day is great,’ advises Dr Shotter. ‘Not just for supporting collagen production, but also because vitamin C is a really good antioxidant against UV and environmental damage. So you get the double benefit of antioxidant protection for the new collagen that you’ve built. You’re not just helping to produce more, but you’re also protecting what you've already got.’
While the RDA for vitamin is far less (75 mg for adult women), and can be achieved through diet, Dr Shotter advises additional supplementation. Expecting your diet to fill the vitamin C gap to what she considers optimum levels is ‘unrealistic’, she says. ‘People say, “I drink orange juice, I eat oranges” but it’s not enough in the modern world where food is less nutrient-dense.’
For best benefits, Dr Shotter advises choosing your vitamin C format carefully. ‘I advise taking a liposomal version, for better bioavailability but fewer gut side effects,' she says, of the form where the vitamin is delivered in an encapsulated form. 'Liposomal is definitely better tolerated at that dosage. Altrient and Evernutri are both good, depending on whether you prefer a gel or capsule.’
Taking your collagen supplement daily is a non-negotiable, she reminds us. ‘And if you stop taking it, the benefits will go again. Consistency is key. I always say to people: “Keep your collagen wherever it’s going to help you build a habit.” For me, it’s by my coffee machine in the morning, because I have a cup first thing every day, so I remember to take it. Many people are noticing some benefits with collagen supplementation from about four to six weeks, but I would say proper results are from three months onwards.’
A final mistake to avoid is having unrealistic expectations with collagen supplements. ‘The science is there now, pretty definitively, to show that marine and bovine collagen supplements at the right dose do work,’ says Dr Shotter. ‘But people can go into it with the wrong expectations. Some brands perhaps bear a bit of responsibility for that, from having slightly overbold marketing claims.’
‘Is collagen supplementation a miracle fix for wrinkles? No. Of course it’s not going to do what Botox, fillers or injectable skin boosters do. But does it have an impact? Yes, absolutely. Especially when we’re looking at treatments that stimulate collagen, it makes complete sense to be taking something that gives you the building blocks to make your own collagen as well.’
