The sun is shining, temperatures are rising, layers are being cast off and calves are coming out to play. We all feel more confident with a bit of extra colour on our bare flesh, but fake tan is a tricky issue as we get older.
We’re conscious of both the ageing effects and health risks of a real tan, but our skin has its own agenda going on: legs are drier, knees are knobblier and cleavages are crinklier. All these issues make self-tan problematic, especially when we need our glow to look grown-up and believable.
So, how exactly can we create a glow that simply makes people ask, ‘Did you go on holiday?’ and not, ‘What fake tan did you use?’ We quizzed tan guru and Self Glow founder James Read, a man who’s tanned everyone, from Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Victoria Beckham to Lady Gaga and Mariah Carey. From finding the right formula to avoiding tell-tale patches, here’s his expert guide on flattering and foolproof self-tan.
Quality matters
Older skin is usually drier, which is why James says it’s important to use self-tan formulas that use stable, good-quality DHA. This is the active ingredient that gives a tanned effect to the top layer of skin, but can be drying unless formulated carefully. ‘Not all DHA is made equal, and better-quality versions give a more believable, non-orange colour that develops and fades evenly,’ says James. ‘I also think you want to be wary of products with a very high level of DHA level – the ones that give an ultra-dark colour – especially on mature skin.’
Dial down your shade
Speaking of which, James advises going for a more subtle shade as you get older, especially on the face. ‘If you use tans that are too dark, it shows up lines, emphasises folds on the face and neck, and settles in pigmentation. For older skin, less is more. I think a natural glow looks more flattering. It enhances your complexion, so you look like a better version of yourself.’
Pick easy formulas
Why make life harder? ‘For the face, I’d say serums, drops and mists tend to sit best on older skin,’ says James. ‘If you’ve had disasters in the past, start with a buildable product. Try something like drops for the face, which you dilute with moisturiser, and a gradual self-tan for the body.’
Self Glow by James Read Golden Nights Sleep Repair Tan Drops
‘With a gradual tan, build it up slowly over a few days for the most even result,’ James says. ‘Avoid over-applying, as this can lead to excess build-up and a patchy finish. When you’ve reached your desired shade, take a break for a couple of days before continuing. For the most natural result, I recommend applying gradual tan for just two consecutive days, then exfoliating on the third day.’
Think skincare first
‘You want to look for self-tan that feels like pampering skincare first, but just happens to give you a glow, too,’ he says. ‘As I’ve got older myself, I know it’s so much more important to use tanning products that are also very hydrating, actively good for the skin and don’t compromise the rest of your skincare regime.’
‘For instance, our new Golden Days Milky Tan Toner, out in June, is something you can apply to cleansed skin, then add your usual moisturiser, serums and SPF over the top without them affecting the tan developing or making it patchy. It’s really calming on the skin and you don’t even feel like you’re self-tanning because you’re using it underneath everything else.’
Prep for success
We’ve all been told the importance of exfoliating to create a smooth canvas, but James says moisturising is the key to good self-tan prep, especially as we get older. ‘I remember the days when people would say, “Don’t put moisturiser on first; it repels the tan,” but it doesn’t,’ he says. ‘You do have to let it absorb but, when your skin is hydrated, it makes your tan last longer and look better because it makes your skin super nourished.’ Using moisturiser daily and lightly exfoliating every three to four days helps your tan last and fade better.
Apply methodically
Use a mitt to apply the tan in sweeping motions and make sure it’s clean for an even result. ‘Start with your face and work your way down the body in sections, saving your hands and feet for last,’ says James. ‘Only use leftover product on your mitt to lightly blend over your hands, ankles and feet – this helps prevent build-up in those areas.’
Spot-correct
As we get older, we all have dry areas where tan likes to cling. ‘These days, I have dry patches between my eyebrows and it will show if I’m not careful,’ says James. ‘What I do is use a sheet mask for at least 20 minutes beforehand and that takes the dryness out of the area and creates a good canvas. Just be aware of where your trouble spots are – you can spot-apply moisturiser on those areas afterwards, too, to stop them picking up excess tan.’
Areas such as elbows, knees, ankle creases, knuckles and heels are all naturally thicker and drier, so it’s vital to gently pat them over at the end with extra moisturiser to dilute the tan and avoid build-up. If you have small trouble spots where tan clings on you, James says you can target these more precisely with a cotton bud – knee dimples being a classic example. ‘I also like to use retinol to prevent tan gathering around the neck, which is a common problem for mature skin,’ adds James.
Should you still end up with the odd blip, James advises using an AHA exfoliant on a cotton bud to take down the tan without stripping the surrounding skin of colour.
Take it off
If you’re moisturising properly every day, your tan should fade very naturally, so you have a clean canvas to reapply. However, if you are seeing hints of tiger-bread skin, James advices reaching for a body product with AHA. ‘Another good trick is to go to a steam room or sauna – if you come out after 20 minutes and rub your skin with a towel, the whole tan comes off,’ he says. A long bath at home has a similar effect and then you’re good go (and glow) again.
