The heat is on, which means we need to protect our skin – not only against burning but also longer-term consequences like pigmentation. Uneven skin tone is a huge bugbear of mature women, and many of us are frustrated to see dark patches popping up in summer, even when we’re religiously applying SPF every day.
So what’s going on and how can we avoid pigmentation appearing or worsening over the sunny months?
To find out, we quizzed top dermatologist and brand founder Dr Sam Bunting. Pigmentation is a major concern she hears about, and often her clients are unwittingly adding to the problem, particularly as they get older. ‘Pigmentation after 40 is often the result of cumulative sun exposure combined with hormonal and inflammatory triggers,’ she says. ‘The biggest mistakes are usually the everyday habits people don’t realise are contributing to the problem.’
These are the 8 unexpected pigmentation triggers she wants women to know about.
Underdosing SPF
We’ve all cottoned on to the fact that UV exposure is the major cause of pigmentation. And millions of women have converted to the daily SPF cause, especially now that the latest formulas are so featherlight and effortlessly spreadable.
However, this in itself has led to a new problem where people hugely underestimate how much SPF they should put on their skin, warns Dr Bunting.
‘A good daily sunscreen habit is vital, so finding the one you actually enjoy using is really important,’ says Dr Bunting. ‘But a runnier formula spreads further, which means it can look like enough when it isn’t. Viscosity is the variable that most people under-appreciate.’
Just skimming your skin with a fluid SPF isn’t enough, warns Dr Bunting. ‘Most people apply far less sunscreen – in any format – than is needed to achieve the protection stated on the label. For pigmentation-prone skin, daily application and regular reapplication are essential, as even small amounts of UV exposure can worsen discolouration.’
‘Fluid formulas aren’t inherently less effective, but underdosing is especially common with these, so we want to encourage generous application,’ she says. ‘Whether your formula is rich or ultra-fluid, you need half a teaspoon for your face and neck to give good protection.’
That doesn’t sound like a lot but you’re likely to be surprised if you squeeze a fluid SPF into a half tsp measuring spoon. It’s a good idea to do exactly that so you can see what you need to get the full pigmentation protection from your favourite fluid formulas. (Some of ours are below.)
Fluid SPF50s loved by GH beauty team
‘Measuring takes away the guesswork with any sunscreen’ says Dr Bunting. Her brand’s own formula is slightly thicker, which is her personal texture preference.
Choosing ‘difficult to dose’ sunscreen formats
Fluid formulas can do a great job if you’re aware of how much you need. However, other formats are more problematic, and should be approached with caution. ‘Sprays and powders may seem convenient but are often difficult to apply evenly and in sufficient amounts,’ says Dr Bunting. ‘If you’re prone to pigmentation, choose a sunscreen that allows generous, reliable and measurable coverage.’
Ignoring visible light
It’s not just UVA and UVB rays that trigger uneven skin tone. ‘Many people don’t realise that visible light from the sun can contribute to pigmentation, especially melasma,’ says Dr Bunting. ‘Tinted sunscreens containing iron oxides can provide additional protection beyond traditional UV filters as they absorb and scatter blue light away from the skin.’
Obviously, you’ll need to stick to the half teaspoon rule if you’re using a tinted sunscreen as your primary protection against UVA/B as well as visible light. These are some of the GH beauty team’s favourite tinted formulas:
Tinted SPFs loved by GH beauty team
You can also find iron oxide in many base products like foundation, BB and tinted moisturiser, some of which also contain SPF, too. For instance, GH is a big fan of Dr Jart+ BB SPF50. However, it’s important to note that makeup should be seen as an SPF bonus, not your main face shield (half a teaspoon of foundation would not be a good look).
Laser hair removal
Be careful of this during periods of high sun exposure, says Dr Bunting. ‘Laser and light-based treatments, like IPL, can increase the risk of post-inflammatory pigmentation, particularly when combined with sun exposure. Extra caution and diligent sun protection are important before and after treatment. This applies not only to clinic treatments but also to at-home devices.’
Aggressive exfoliation
You already know that a disrupted skin barrier can cause sensitivity, but did you know it plays a part in pigmentation? ‘Physical scrubs and overuse of exfoliating acids can damage the skin barrier and trigger inflammation, which may actually worsen pigmentation, says Dr Bunting. ‘This is especially true in melanin-rich skin. A gentle, slow approach using azelaic acid, which speeds up cell turnover whilst combating inflammation, is often more effective for maintaining an even skin tone.’
Skipping daily antioxidants
SPF is only one part of the pigmentation puzzle, and it’s best paired with antioxidants for a ‘belt and braces’ approach. And you do need to do it daily for best protection, rather than dipping in and out.
‘Antioxidants such as vitamin C help defend against oxidative stress that can contribute to pigmentation,’ Dr Bunting explains. They work particularly well in the morning, applied before sunscreen as part of a preventative strategy.’
In fact, a 1996 study found that vitamin C increased protection against UVA skin damage, but only when used in combination with SPF. So start every day with your dream team of vitamin C and sunscreen. These are the best vitamin Cs according to the GHI.
Using citrus oils
Citrus oils plus sunshine, on the other hand, are a toxic pairing. ‘Some citrus oils, including bergamot and lime, can be phototoxic and may trigger pigmentation when exposed to sunlight,’ cautions Dr Bunting. ‘Natural doesn’t always mean skin-friendly.’
Unverified pigmentation products
There are some powerful treatments for pigmentation out there, but not all sources are reputable. ‘Resist the temptation to buy prescription treatments, such as hydroquinone, from unregulated sources,’ urges Dr Bunting.
‘Pigmentation treatments obtained outside a regulated medical setting may be counterfeit, contaminated or incorrectly prescribed, increasing the risk of skin damage and worsening pigmentation.’
In short, if it’s a prescription product, leave it to the professionals.
