You might have seen your favorite influencers creating their own “skincare smoothies” or “cocktailing” products like serums, toners, and moisturizers on social media. But do all skincare ingredients truly play nicely together?
The truth is this: not always. There are some skincare combinations that can actually harm your skin instead of improving it. To get all of the details on what skincare ingredients you should be cautious about mixing and the pairs that are mutually beneficial, I spoke with our experts in the Good Housekeeping Institute Beauty & Personal Care Lab and a dermatologist. You may be surprised by what they had to say.
What is skincare cocktailing?
“It’s the idea of layering ingredients or pairing ingredients for synergy,” says Jessie Cheung, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist with practices in Chicago and New York City. She explains that ingredients that are combined should work together in a way that is beneficial to the skin.
What ingredients are unsafe to mix?
In order to determine if your skincare products are safe to mix, you’ll want to pay close attention to the ingredients they contain. “Avoid mixing actives like retinol, vitamin C, alpha and beta hydroxy acids (AHAs and BHAs), and benzoyl peroxide,” says Beauty Lab Director Sabina Wizemann. “Mixtures of these [ingredients] can cause irritation and reduce efficacy.”
With ingredients like AHAs and retinol, you should also avoid applying them back to back in your routine. “Unless a product is specifically formulated with both ingredients, we suggest that these ingredients not be mixed because it can excessively irritate skin,” says Beauty Lab Senior Chemist Danusia Wnek. “If you would still like to use both actives in your routine, we recommend alternating them on different nights.” These ingredients also tend to be drying, which can lead to irritation if not paired properly.
Dr. Cheung agrees, noting that skin irritation is a sign that the ingredients you have combined are having an adverse effect. “As long as it’s not irritating your skin, the goal of skincare cocktailing is to actually help,” she says.
What ingredients can be mixed?
There are instances in which combining skincare ingredients can have positive results. If you’re hoping to try this successfully for yourself, a great place to start is with ingredients that aim “to nurture that skin barrier and help it repair,” Dr. Cheung notes.
That can look like pairing “your ceramides and your hyaluronic acid for hydration,” she says. Another example of skincare ingredients that work effectively together is “antioxidants and sunscreen for sun protection,” according to Dr. Cheung.
Wnek explains that this pairing helps to enhance sun protection as both ingredients complement each other. “Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that can help protect skin from cellular damage caused by free radicals from sources like UV light and pollution,” she says. “It neutralizes free radicals by donating electrons, preventing them from damaging skin. Unlike sunscreens that absorb and reflect harmful UV sun rays, topical vitamin C offers protection through its role as an antioxidant.” She also emphasizes that vitamin C should never replace sunscreen, so be sure to always apply antioxidant serums first and then finish with SPF.
The bottom line
You can mix skincare safely. The key to successfully combining skincare ingredients is to make sure that they are working together to boost your intended results. Before coming up with your own combinations or cocktailing yourself, you may want to consult with a dermatologist about your specific skincare needs. And always be sure to avoid mixing products that irritate the skin.
