Nails can be a lot of upkeep, not to mention expensive. Between salon appointments, gel manicures and acrylics, achieving a polished look often comes at the expense of nail health. Luckily, natural-looking nails are on the rise and with them a new low-maintenance manicure is emerging – and it gives brittle nails a much-needed break without sacrificing shine. Enter: nail illuminators.

What is a nail illuminator?

If you’re unfamiliar, think of a nail illuminator as a sheer, glossy polish that gives nails a subtle ‘your nails but better’ finish.

‘It’s like a BB cream for nails; it softly perfects, rather than masks,’ says nail guru and brand founder Leighton Denny. ‘Instead of heavy coverage, it gives a semi-sheer veil with a subtle glow. It targets dullness, staining and discolouration, while instantly brightening the nail bed.’

nail illuminators manicure trend
verona_S // Getty Images
Nail illuminators add a pretty, healthy glow to the nails

Much like the shift towards barely there makeup – hello, Pamela Anderson – manicures are also becoming more understated. Natural-looking nails are increasingly taking centre stage on red carpets, with stars such as Jessie Buckley and Margot Robbie embracing glossy, minimalist manicures over intricate nail art and heavy extensions.

‘We’re seeing a shift away from the high-maintenance cycle of gels and acrylics,’ says Leighton. ‘People now want that effortless “your nails but better” finish instead of something heavy or artificial.’

‘A clean, natural nail looks elevated, timeless and effortlessly polished. It gives a sense of being well cared for without looking overdone, which is exactly what people want right now,’ he explains.

Are nail illuminators good for damaged nails?

Giving your nails a break from harsh salon treatments is never a bad thing. ‘Gels and acrylics require constant upkeep and can leave the natural nail feeling thin and dehydrated. Nail illuminators offer an easier alternative, giving a high-gloss, chic look that takes minutes to apply at home, with no UV light needed,’ says Leighton.

Better still, some nail illuminators are formulated with nail-loving ingredients designed to support healthier-looking nails over time.

‘Some focus purely on cosmetic effect, but I developed mine as treatment-beauty hybrids, so they don’t just visually enhance the nail, they also help improve the appearance and condition of the nail over time,’ says Leighton.

‘My nail illuminators are enriched with ingredients such as porcelain flower extract to improve the appearance of the nail surface, lime tree extract as an antioxidant to help protect and hydrate, and vitamin E to nourish and support flexibility, helping reduce the look of brittleness,’ he explains.

Can a nail illuminator make my hands look younger?

According to Leighton, well-groomed nails will always make a difference. ‘Healthy-looking nails can make the hands appear fresher and more polished overall. When nails look dull, stained or dehydrated, it can make the hands appear less cared for.’

nail illuminators manicure trend
Kseniya Ovchinnikova//Getty Images

‘Nail illuminators are great for helping the nails catch the light in a really soft way, which instantly makes the hands look fresher and smoother,’ he adds.

What do I apply a nail illuminator for the best results?

As any good nail artist will tell you, prep is always key. ‘A clean, well-prepped canvas gives the best results,’ says Leighton. ‘It doesn’t need to be a complicated routine, but prep is key for a smooth, long-lasting finish. Shape the nail using a quality file to help smooth and gently “seal” the nail edge – this will help reduce splitting and peeling at the tips.’

Leighton Denny Small Crystal Nail File

Small Crystal Nail File

Leighton Denny Small Crystal Nail File

Credit: boots

‘Next, I’d recommend cleansing the nail plate so it’s completely free from oils, hand cream or dust using a gentle remover,’ he adds.

‘You can use the nail illuminator as a base coat or on its own; I’d recommend two to three coats depending on the depth of colour you want,’ says Leighton.

As for the application, treat it as you would a polish. ‘Wipe the brush on the inside of the bottle to the neck so you have just enough to cover one nail and your brush isn’t overloaded, as this can flood the nail. Begin at the centre of your nail, about 5mm from your cuticle. Let the brush bristles fan out slightly for maximum coverage, then push towards the cuticle, pull back to the tip and repeat down each side of the nail for full coverage,’ he explains. ‘Always swipe the tip of your nail to help prevent premature chipping. Repeat this process on each nail.’

Are there different shades?

While all nail illuminators are designed to create glossy, healthy-looking nails, there’s still room to play with the finish. ‘My collection is like a nude wardrobe for natural nails, with three universally flattering, semi-sheer tones,’ says Leighton.

Milky White

Leighton Denny Nail Illuminator Milky White

Nail Illuminator Milky White

Leighton Denny Nail Illuminator Milky White

Credit: Leighton Denny

‘Milky White gives a soft, clean, milky finish that brightens the nail and creates a fresh, minimalist look.’

Blush Pink

Leighton Denny Nail Illuminator Blush Pink

Nail Illuminator Blush Pink

Leighton Denny Nail Illuminator Blush Pink

Credit: Leighton Denny

‘Blush Pink adds a delicate, healthy-looking pink glow that revives dull nails with a natural flush of colour.’

Hazy Lilac

Leighton Denny Nail Illuminator Hazy Lilac

Nail Illuminator Hazy Lilac

Leighton Denny Nail Illuminator Hazy Lilac

Credit: Leighton Denny

‘Hazy Lilac is a modern nude-lilac with a subtle shimmer, designed to help neutralise yellow tones while leaving a cool, luminous finish.’

‘If your skin’s cooler in tone, soft pinks and lilacs tend to be really flattering because they echo those natural undertones. If you’re warmer, I’d go for nudes with a bit of warmth in them or softer, creamy tones — they sit more naturally against the skin and don’t look too stark,’ he explains.

For best results, Leighton recommends removing and reapplying your nail illuminator every seven days.

That said, speaking from experience, you can often get away with wearing it for longer (if you must). Since the finish is so natural-looking, chips and regrowth are far less noticeable than with traditional polish or gels.

Glossy, healthy-looking nails are just a swipe away.