As we get older and greyer, it becomes increasingly difficult to work out exactly which hair colour will suit us best. While we might be able to recognise when something isn’t working, it’s tricky to understand exactly why, or how to address it.
‘What’s the most flattering hair colour for me now?’ is one of the most common questions posed to salon owner and celebrity hairdresser Edward James, who counts royalty and Dame Joanna Lumley among his clients. And while it’s one best answered in real life with a hair expert, Edward tells GH that there are some simple ways to point ourselves in the right direction.
From key mistakes to avoid to clever ways to assess your own unique colouring, here’s the expert guide to finding your most flattering shade at 50-plus.
Don’t recreate the past
Stop matching the colour you had at 30, urges Edward. ‘One of the biggest mistakes women make is trying to recreate the exact colour they had in their 20s and 30s. As we age, our skin naturally loses pigment and contrast softens, so the colour that once looked striking can suddenly appear harsh.’
‘A useful rule of thumb is to go around one shade lighter for every decade, as hair typically becomes around 10% greyer over that period and naturally appears softer. Often, slightly brighter and more dimensional shades are far more flattering than darker, solid colours which can be achieved through subtle micro-highlighting or balayage techniques.
Assess your complexion properly
Your skin tone hasn't changed as much as your skin clarity, explains Edward. ‘As skin changes with age, redness, pigmentation and unevenness develop and certain hair colours can either emphasise these concerns or help neutralise them. Very cool, smoky brunettes and overly ashy blondes can sometimes make pink-toned skin appear redder or leave the complexion looking tired.’
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A hairdresser will have an expert eye for this, but it’s something you can easily assess yourself, Edward explains.
‘A simple test is to stand in natural daylight without makeup and look at your cheeks and neck. If you naturally flush pink or rosy, excessively cool colours can exaggerate that. In those cases, adding a little warmth or softness often creates a healthier, more balanced appearance overall. It is worth getting your colourist to colour swatch different hair tones against your skin as this will help to work out the tones you want to avoid.’
Place colour around the face
The right hair colour should brighten your face without makeup, Edward explains. ‘The most flattering hair colours make the eyes appear brighter, the skin look fresher and reduce shadows around the mouth, jawline and eyes.
‘One of the easiest ways to achieve this is with lighter face-framing pieces around the hairline and neckline. Whether created through balayage or highlights, these lighter sections reflect light back onto the face, softening features and creating more of a focus on your features.’
Be cautious of ash
Ash isn't always your friend, says Edward. ‘Many women assume ash tones are the answer because they want to avoid warmth, but overly ashy colours can sometimes leave mature skin looking dull and washed out. A touch of warmth often brings far more life back into the complexion.
‘A useful guide is to look at both your skin and eye colour,’ he says. ‘People with golden, hazel or green eyes often suit warmer blondes and brunettes, while those with blue or grey eyes can usually carry cooler tones more successfully. I find that many people actually sit somewhere in the middle and are best described as neutral, meaning they suit a balance of both warm and cool tones rather than extremes.’
Be wary of going too light
Going lighter doesn’t always mean looking younger, says Edward. ‘Softer colours create less contrast against grey regrowth and are often kinder against changing skin tones as well. The trick is choosing the right blonde, not simply the lightest blonde and I always say to my clients that lifestyle and maintenance should also play a role in the decision.
Great hair colour should look beautiful for the entire lifespan of the colour appointment, not look perfect for two weeks and then leave you battling obvious roots (unless you are ok with this level of colour maintenance).
This is where grey blending has become so popular. Many women assume covering every grey hair is the goal, but strategically blending grey can create softness, dimension and brightness around the face while being far more modern and lower maintenance than solid block colour.
Look at your eyebrows
Your eyebrows should influence your hair colour choice, advises Edward. ‘Even the most beautiful hair colour can look disconnected if the brows no longer frame the face. Eyebrows are often described as the furniture of the face because they provide structure and balance. For many women, a simple brow tint can make a dramatic difference, helping create harmony between the hair colour and facial features, even if they've decided to embrace grey hair.’
Avoid anything flat
The most flattering colour is usually multi-dimensional, says Edward. ‘The most flattering colours usually contain a mixture of lighter and darker tones that create movement, depth and reflection. This can be achieved through subtle highlights, lowlights, glosses or grey blending techniques. A good colourist will naturally keep the hairline and face-framing sections slightly softer and brighter than the rest of the hair, creating a more flattering and natural-looking result that grows out more seamlessly.
Put condition first
‘Shine matters more than colour,’ says Edward. ‘The most flattering hair colour in the world will never look expensive and polished if the hair is dull. After 50, condition and shine often have a bigger impact than the actual shade itself. Healthy hair reflects light more evenly, making both the hair and skin look better.’
It’s why he’s seen ‘a huge increase’ in glossing treatments in his salons. ‘Whether clear or tinted, glosses smooth the cuticle, enhance reflection and give the hair that healthy, polished finish that instantly makes any colour look more luxurious.’
