While a dose of sunshine can do wonders for our mood, it can be less kind to our skin. With the British heatwave showing no signs of easing up, pigmentation becomes a concern for many of us — and disguising it is easier said than done when heat causes makeup to slip and slide.
‘The sun’s rays trigger our bodies to produce more melanin, which causes existing dark spots and sun patches to temporarily deepen in colour,’ explains top makeup artist Ruby Hammer. ‘At the same time, our bodies flush when trying to cool down. That increased redness creates a stark contrast, making the brown pop more.’
Of course, a good suncare routine should always come first and foremost. But if stubborn dark patches have already appeared, Ruby says long-lasting coverage is possible. It just takes the right techniques and products.
Speaking with GH, Ruby revealed the tips she relies on to keep pigmentation covered throughout the day — even in the heat.
Prep the skin
Any long-lasting makeup routine starts with good prep. ‘There are simple steps you can take, especially for mature skin,’ says Ruby. ‘Heavy layering is the worst enemy of makeup longevity. Swap out rich emollient creams for lightweight cooling gels or serums and look for an invisible lightweight fluid or SPF serum.’ She recommends Allies of Skin’s The One SPF 50 Invisible Sunscreen Gel, which she says is protective and particularly brilliant under makeup.
Allies of Skin The One SPF 50 Invisible Sunscreen Gel
Most importantly, she recommends allowing each product time to sink into the skin properly. As she puts it, ‘Patience pays off in terms of wear time.’
Choose the right products
Finding the sweet spot between coverage and a natural-looking finish isn’t always easy. Fortunately, with more than 40 years of industry experience, Ruby knows exactly which products will keep pigmentation covered without looking cakey or slipping in the heat.
‘Laura Mercier’s Secret Camouflage Duo has been an icon in makeup artist kits for decades, and for good reason,’ Ruby says. The clever concealer stick is dual-ended, which Ruby says is great for custom-matching the exact shade for your skin. ‘It’s a drier, high-pigment formula, it stays exactly where you tap it and simply refuses to budge, slip or slide in high humidity,’ she explains.
Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage Concealer Duo
Alternatively, if you prefer liquid formulas, she equally rates the Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer. ‘It’s beautifully forgiving on mature skin lines while offering serious, buildable coverage. It is incredibly long-wearing but retains a luminous finish,’ she says.
Technique is everything
Good preparation and the right products will do part of the heavy lifting, but according to Ruby, it’s your technique that will make all the difference. ‘You don’t want to mask the face, you want to strategically camouflage,’ she says.
Your first port of call is layering. ‘Always work in micro-thin layers,’ advises Ruby. ‘To start, apply a sheer breathable skin tint or lightweight base to unify your skin tone. This will soften pigmentation without hiding your natural radiance.’
As for covering the pigmentation itself, Ruby recommends pinpointing your concealer. ‘To do this, step back from the mirror and actually assess where needs a little extra help,’ she explains. ‘With this identified, take a tiny precise brush and apply a high pigment concealer only on the dark spots. Avoid painting it all around the surrounding clear skin.’
For ultimate precision, she recommends her Magnetic Brush Set. ‘You simply cannot achieve precision pinpoint concealing with a giant foundation brush or a bulky sponge,’ she says. ‘The fine, densely packed synthetic heads in my magnetic interchangeable sets allow you to place your concealer with absolute millimetre accuracy, ensuring your strategic camouflage remains completely undetectable.’
Ruby Hammer 3-in-1 Magnetic Makeup brush
In short, keeping pigmentation covered in the heat isn’t about applying more makeup. It’s about using the right products in the right places.
