If you have hooded eyes, you’ll have probably thought about adapting your eyeliner to create a more flattering, eye-opening effect. It’s an undeniably effective tweak, but to make it even better, you’ll want to adjust your brow makeup as well.
That’s the advice of mature makeup guru Ruby Hammer, who has worked with everyone from Sharon Stone to Helen Mirren over the years. She’s perfected three universally flattering eyeliner techniques for hooded eyes (which you can read about here), and explains that the right eyebrow makeup instantly elevates the effect even further.
‘Firstly, having hooded eyes isn’t a flaw to be fixed. It is simply an eye shape,’ she emphasises. In order to make the most of them, she advises adjusting your brow makeup to create a more lifted illusion.
‘When your upper lid fold rests closer to your lash line, the space between your lash line and your brow bone instantly becomes prime real estate,’ she tells GH. ‘Your brows are the frame that creates structure to your entire face, and with a few subtle tweaks to your daily technique you can instantly lift the eye area.’
That all starts with whatever makeup you currently use to define your brows. Most of us will fill in our brows without much thought or nuance, adding the same depth from edge to tail. That needs a rethink if you have hooded eyes, says Ruby.
‘Rather than filling the brow in uniformly, define the arch further towards the outer corner,' she advises. 'This will create an immediate upwards lift. Sketch light, upward, hair-like strokes to add height without creating heavy weight along the top edge and through the tail.’
‘You’re not adding more product, just shifting where the strokes go,’ she explains. ‘By placing light upward strokes along the top of the arch and tail, whilst keeping the underside and inner corners less dense, you draw the eye upwards and outwards. This will maximise your lid space.’
To add to the illusion, Ruby advises being ‘light-handed on the inner part of the brow. Just fill in any gaps.’
Once you’re done, lock the colour and shape in place with a clear brow gel – Ruby’s own Mascara and Brow Duo is an excellent multi-tasker for more lifted brows and lashes. ‘Brush the brows upwards and outwards - this creates a clean groomed look that will hold shape all day.’
What brow mistakes should I avoid?
Ruby says that number one mistake is creating a ‘dense, blocky shape’ above hooded eyes. ‘By applying brow makeup too heavily, you can create a shadow that will make the eyes appear smaller,’ says Ruby.
Another common no-no does the opposite of what you’re trying to achieve – and looks dated, as well.
‘Avoid using a frosted, shimmery highlight just under the brow,’ says Ruby.
‘This will bring the area forward further, rather than push it back,' warns Ruby. 'Opt for a soft, matte concealer in a shade lighter than your skin tone instead.’
