No, you’re not imagining it. Pigmentation is hitting our faces unusually hard this summer and the older you are, the more likely you are to notice your sun spots worsening.
In fact, experts are seeing pigmentation problems surging across the board, from sun spots to melasma blotches. It’s all adding a dark side to the exceptionally sunny weather we’ve seen across much of the country since May.
‘I’m definitely seeing more pigmentation cases, and earlier than I usually do,’ says Dr Sam Bunting, cosmetic dermatologist. ‘Normally people wait until September, but this year they’re coming in now, and saying, “What’s going on? What am I doing wrong?” Even patients who are seasoned skincare pros are saying they’re seeing their pigmentation relapsing, despite having a pretty good strategy for looking after their skin.’
Why is pigmentation surging right now?
There’s no mystery over the cause. ‘It’s been relentlessly hot for many of us, and that means there’s far less room for error when UV levels are so much higher than we’re used to,’ says Dr Bunting, author of upcoming skincare bible Flawless: Your Ultimate Guide To Clear Bright Skin. ‘It’s almost been like living abroad for weeks on end. People are being caught out by incidental exposure, even ones who think they’re vigilant with sun protection.’
Pigmentation is an especially common concern for older skin because there’s an accumulation of damage under the surface. Essentially, this means the sun exposure sins of the past rising to the surface in the form of uneven pigmentation patches.
‘Sun spots are different to freckles in that they don’t fade in the winter months and they’re due to cumulative DNA changes that keep pigment-producing cells called melanocytes permanently switched on,’ she says. ‘They’re increasingly common as we age, especially if you’ve spent lots of time in the sun – 90% of fair-skinned adults over the age of 60 will have sun spots.’
And while sun spots remain present all year round, ‘They may be more visible in summer as UV exposure can darken them further.’ So, with UV levels exceptionally high in the UK this year, it’s no wonder that more and more of us are noticing them.
What can I do right now?
Firstly, you need to identify your pigmentation type. Sun spots are something you can certainly work on improving right now, but if it’s melasma – a different, hormonally driven type of pigmentation – it’s a trickier situation.
‘Melasma shows up as distinctive symmetrical pigmentation patches on the forehead, cheekbones and the upper lip,’ Dr Bunting says. ‘It’s driven by a host of triggers: hormones, UV, pollution, blue light and even heat, which means it’s especially hard to address in a hot summer like this.’
Realistically, your best strategy for melasma right now is to stop it worsening (which we’ll come to) and look at treating it post-summer. ‘It’s a complex issue that responds best to specialist medical treatment,’ says Dr Bunting.
How can I stop things getting worse?
Whatever type of pigmentation you have, sunscreen is your primary weapon. And while you might think you know all there is to know already about SPF, chances are you have blind spots, says Dr Bunting.
Top up at lunch
‘I’m seeing lots of people who are really good at doing their application in the morning, and then they go outside at lunchtime to get food or walk to the gym without topping up,’ she says. ‘What they’re not factoring in is that the product they applied first thing isn’t as effective in the midday sunshine, when they need it most. So they’re seeing little patches of pigmentation popping up because of that.’
Watch the windows
If you’re sitting by a window, be aware that your skin is being bombarded with pigmentation-triggering UVA, so SPF needs to be reapplied diligently. ‘People often get caught out like this when it comes to pigmentation,’ says Dr Bunting.
Beware blind spots
Applying SPF unevenly is a key pigmentation trigger, she adds. ‘People often miss the hairline, or go lighter near the eye,’ she says. ‘Or they forget the upper lip. If you’ve got melasma in particular, those are all areas where just 10 minutes of sun exposure is enough to bring it all back or undo all the hard work you’ve done.’
Apply enough of the right stuff
To get the full SPF level stated on the bottle, 'you need to apply half a teaspoon to your face and neck for every application,’ says Dr Sam, who finds few people actually follow this vital pigmentation-blocking step.
Sunscreen needs to be reapplied after two hours, as the protective film often becomes less reliable with rubbing and movement. For this reason, Dr Bunting advises topping up SPF regularly ahead of daytime exposure and using a high-factor, photo-stable SPF to minimise UV exposure. ‘I like mineral sunscreens, which tend to be very photo-stable, meaning they don’t break down when exposed to UV rays.’ she says. If you have melasma, a tinted formula is especially useful as it guards against visible light too.
How can I treat pigmentation in summer?
If sun spots are the issue, Dr Bunting says it’s often possible to go ahead with a pigmentation-fading protocol now. However, you do need to be totally committed to using sunscreen properly, otherwise there’s no point,’ she says.
‘My first question to pigmentation patients is always: “Are you going to be able to keep out of the sun going forward? ‘Are they going on holiday and will they be protecting their skin fully? Are they going to avoid incidental day-to-day exposure at home?’
If the honest answer is no, it’s not worth starting now.
However, for those who are ready to jump on board the treatment train, Dr Bunting is a firm advocate for starting with skincare for sun spots. ‘At the clinic, we always do what we can with prescription topicals first,’ she says. ‘Why would you jump in with a hammer when you can use a screwdriver?’
Plus, you don’t need to wait forever for results. ‘I think six to 12 weeks is actually a realistic amount of time to see an improvement,’ she says. ‘Not to eliminate it totally, but to reduce the contrast between background skin tone and pigmentation.’
But I want a quick laser fix…
While laser does promise a faster way to zap sun spots, it’s a) expensive, b) can involve downtime and c) not a magic bullet. ‘Even if you’re someone who has, say, a big event coming up and want to go down the laser route, I think you’ll always benefit from addressing the many consequences of sun damage across the whole complexion with skincare, too,’ Dr Bunting says. ‘Because if you have pigmentation from cumulative sun exposure, you’ve got other changes, like loss of firmness and dullness, going on within the skin, and you want to address those holistically.’
Lasers are something she’s very wary of recommending in summer especially. ‘I very rarely advise pigmentation treatment by laser during summer, simply because if the skin is even slightly tanned, it’s easy to burn. In addition, laser treatment creates inflammation and can temporarily make you more vulnerable to further pigmentation,’ she explains. ‘You only have to expose your skin for a very short time after a treatment for it to have an adverse effect. It’s much harder to avoid that happening when it’s as hot as this.’
In short, she advises waiting until autumn if lasers are something you’re considering.
What skincare actually makes a difference to pigmentation?
Dr Bunting is a firm believer in using a synergistic combination of three key actives to target the multiple pathways of pigmentation. ‘The aim is to turn up skin brightness while turning down dark patches,’ she says. ‘That’s what the eye sees as a fresher complexion.’ Skin can then be assessed come autumn to see if a stronger prescription skincare or professional treatment would be appropriate.
Vitamin A: This comes in the form of retinoids and should be tailored to your skin’s sensitivity levels. ‘They can be aggravating for some people, so start low in strength - my favourite starter retinoid is a form called granactive retinoid (found in Dr Sam’s Flawless Nightly Serum) as it’s both well-tolerated and effective.’ Start slow, use it at nighttime only and buffer it with a rich moisturiser post-application to reduce irritation.
Vitamin C: This is perhaps one of the best-known anti-pigmentation actives, and while Dr Bunting agrees it has a definite place, ‘It can be oversold as a solution for pigmentation on its own,’ she says. ‘I would use vitamin C in the morning because it complements the work of your SPF as well as supporting more targeted actives for pigmentation. It’s also very useful for future-proofing your skin.’
Azelaic acid: This isn’t as well-known as other actives but Dr Bunting describes it as a ‘game-changer’ for pigmentation. ‘It inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production, so helps fade pigmentation,’ she says. While it’s generally very well-tolerated (it even helps to settle sensitive skin), some people do experience some initial, minor dryness or itching at first. ‘That’s normal and tends to settle within a week or two,’ she says.
It plays nicely with vitamin C, so Dr Bunting advises using it in the morning, too, allowing the vitamin C layer to absorb first. If you’ve never used it before, start with alternate-day use and buffer with moisturiser if necessary. ‘It’s very forgiving, so it’s often the first active I introduce in routines for hyperpigmented skin, especially in darker skintones.’ Find it in Dr Sam Bunting Flawless Brightly Pro Serum, which should be used every other day initially.
Any other tips for fighting pigmentation?
While you’re adding in pigmentation-fighting actives, be kind to your skin. ‘Ease back on complex cleansing routines so you’re doing only what you need to cleanse your skin without depleting your skin barrier.’
You also want to make sure you’re applying correctly to get optimum results from your pigmentation products.
For even, effective application of actives, Dr Sam recommends using her ‘13 Dot’ technique.
- Upper face: Place 3 dots in a row across the forehead
- Cheeks: Place 3 dots on each cheek (6 dots total) in a downward or diagonal pattern.
- Nose: Place 2 dots down the bridge and sides of the nose.
- Chin: Place 2 dots on the chin area.
![pigmentation sun spots](https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod/images/3f886916-a480-457e-ace6-ae54ff5550d6.jpg?resize=640:* "FLAWLESS book cover, "Your ultimate guide to bright, clear skin" by Dr Sam Bunting")
Dr Sam Bunting’s book, Flawless: Your Ultimate Guide To Clear Bright Skin is available to preorder here
