I used to be a cheesemonger and sold artisan cheese to chefs in Chicago for almost ten years, and when I think of pasta (and I often do), I dream of cacio e pepe. It’s one of the four classic Roman pasta preparations that rule the culinary culture in the region – the others are pasta alla carbonara, alla gricia, and all’amatriciana. The sharp, salty flavour of a hunk of pecorino romano cheese, plus freshly ground black pepper, is crucial to the rustic flavour of this simple dish.
The best way to buy pecorino romano
I buy it in small wedges, preferably cut fresh from the wheel, and whizz it in the food processor for a rough texture that is fine enough to melt instantly. I then keep the ground cheese in the fridge to add to Roman-style (and frankly, most other) pastas, to sprinkle on roasted veggies, salads, and to mix into dressings.
I prefer buying it from a cheese counter rather than purchasing the shrink-wrapped pieces because the flavour is so much better. I sometimes grate it fresh from the wedge to finish a pizza (even a frozen one) or pasta to add flavour and flourish at the table.
What about parmesan cheese?
Don’t get me wrong, I love parmigiano reggiano, the so-called 'King of Cheeses', for its savoury, caramelly, nutty flavour that brings umami to every plate. But more often I seek the punchy, salty hit of pecorino romano – with garlicky greens, tomato-based pastas, and even Caesar salad dressing. When you are using good quality olive oil, anchovies, lemon juice, fresh garlic, and sharp black pepper, why wouldn't you choose the more robust cheese?
Dishes with olives, roasted peppers, and anything grilled with a bit of a char, pair beautifully with the rustic taste of a true pecorino romano. Not to mention, it’s generally less expensive than parmigiano reggiano.
What's the difference between pecorino romano and parmesan cheese?
Pecorino romano and parmesan are both aged Italian (or Italian-style) cheeses made in large wheels. Pecorino romano, however, is made from sheep milk ("sheep" is "pecora" in Italian) while parmigiano reggiano is made from cow’s milk and is a protected designation of origin (PDO) cheese produced in specific regions of Italy. "Parmesan" can refer to either parmigiano reggiano or to non-PDO cheeses made in the same style.
Unlike other pecorino cheeses – such as the milder pecorino toscano or the softer, younger pecorino sardo – pecorino romano is aged longer and is saltier, firmer, and more assertive in flavour, which makes it especially well suited for grating over pasta.
Is pecorino romano the same as romano cheese?
Pecorino romano cheese possesses a PDO (protected designation of origin) and therefore can only be made in particular regions of Italy – primarily Sardinia, Lazio, and the province of Grosseto in Tuscany. There are also specific guidelines regulating its production and it must be aged for a minimum of five months.
Cheese just called "romano", on the other hand, generally refers to an American-made version of a hard, salty cheese that can be made from cow’s milk, sheep’s milk, goat’s milk (or a blend) without the nuances in flavour and texture that a heritage pecorino romano from Italy might possess. Look for Italian brands such as Fulvi or Locatelli, or the initials PDO (or DOP in Italian) on the labels at your cheese counter or supermarket.
Lisa Futterman is a Chicago-based chef who writes about travel, beverages, dining, and cooking for multiple outlets like Food & Wine, Chicago Magazine, Thrillist, WTTW, MSN, and Eating Well. She is a contributing editor for Alcohol Professor, covering trends in gin, tequila, and ready-to-drink cocktails. Her love of cheese, wine, and spirits has taken her all over the world—from the Comté aging rooms in Fort St. Antoine in the Jura to the wild agave fields in the desert outside of Oaxaca.
Stacey looks after all food and drink reviews — from coffee pods and veg boxes, to natural wine and tequila. Stacey is also founder of Crummbs, where she’s written nearly 2,000 restaurant and hotel reviews since 2013. Prior to this, Stacey wrote hundreds of in-depth buying guides for the Independent, i newspaper and BBC Good Food, as well as reviewing restaurants and interviewing celebrities in her column at Balance Magazine. Stacey has also appeared in BAFTA-nominated BBC documentary Blood, Sweat & Takeaways, where she investigated South East Asia's food production industry, appearing on both Newsnight and BBC World Service to share her findings. Regularly checking out the latest restaurants, bars and product launches, Stacey also loves experimenting with recipes at home, and is a WSET-certified wine and spirits expert, with over 10 years of experience in the business. You can follow Stacey on Instagram @crummbs_uk
